You will need a gun, a filter and probably a bleeder valve.

That turbine was usually setup for the 11 series guns which were bleeder types (air continuously exits the gun even without a trigger pull). To use the "better" series 10 non-bleeder guns and non-bleeders from other manufacturers a pressure relief valve will need to be installed on the turbine. Cost is ~$35-$45 last I looked.

How are the estimates different? Are all components of similar quality and have the ability to add more to the system if you want to in the future?

If it's made by HALO, the frosted glass is held in by short pins that protrude from the fixture.

Push the frosted lens up into the fixture about 1/16"

Rotate frosted glass counter-clockwise about 1 inch.

Frosted glass will now drop out of fixture by its own weight.




Instructions above are for fixture that looks like this:




Mike

Now that's what I'd call a correctly v-shaped edge. Great idea, Derek.

Klaus

Have you thought about just making large raised panels (basically big cabinet doors) to cover the area. This would address any issues with wood movement due to the floating panels and it will look a lot nicer I think. You can cover up any seams with molding and maybe build up some columns at the ends.

I have some old concrete that I should have probably sealed a while back. My big concern is the impact of ice-melt in the winter and in general, just trying to preserve the concrete. I spoke to my local concrete product supply house and they recommended a product called comproshield MX which is a water based completely VOC compliant product that I have used before and seems to work well. The challenge is that the stuff is something like $60 a gallon. I am not asking about ice melt as I am aware of the options and challenges of each but more about simply sealing concrete. As I have read, most of the failure of concrete has to do with water penetration...anyone have any thoughts on this??

It would be better if you could take a pic that showed the entire top of the chimney, crown and all but it appears the flue is much smaller than the chimney and sticks up from the crown by 1 or two courses of brick. What I'd do is wire mesh on top of the existing flat crown, anchored to it, then form around the existing crown and pour and trowel a new, sloping crown. You can paint the existing with an adhesion promoter as well. The mesh should keep the new crown from cracking. It looks like the flue sticks up high enough that the new poured crown can be thick enough to minimize any cracking.

You should be fine. I would leave the inside bare, and top coat the oil with a waterbased poly.

Have you checked Habitat ReStore and other similar salvage places?

I used Elmer's wood putty on some porch columns I made. They were painted with latex primer and topcoat from SW, can't remember which one but it's what the guy recommended for PVC and it looks great after about 3 years now. And you can't see where the puttied holes are.

John