this is a big decision. While inserts can vastly improve your R factor, they're still depending on how well sealed the old frame was within the opening. However, if you want to replace the entire frame, you'll be facing striping back the siding and also installing new trim inside---a much bigger job.

I'm not sure if this will work, but just wondering if someone with an infared camera could tell how much loss was occurring around your window frame at present. If it were minimal, I'd just go with the inserts unless your siding was really bad already.

that's really nice. I wish I could put mine on edge like that, but there isn't enough room

Steve

That is some very nice handles for sure. Are the chisels cheap to buy?

Arlin

That's pretty sweet!

I'm just about ready to go for a modern-plate saw one of these days coming up. You're doing a great job.

Grizzly maintains a list of customers that are willing to demonstrate their machines to folks like you.
Look here:
http://grizzly23-px.rtrk.ca/help/q_and_a...a2-ec2db39c34a4
Ag

once secured it probably will stop rocking if the action is slight

Joe

I have used a file card for years and have not noticed any issues with my files.

However, I have recently learned a file cleaning trick that is even better at getting out all of the gunk from deep in the teeth. The next time you're at a Chinese restaurant, save a pair of bamboo chopsticks. Rub the end of the chopstick on the file parallel to the teeth. The end of the chopstick will start to conform to the teeth and the fibers will get down into the bottom. You will be amazed how well this works, even on very fine tooth files.

Here is a file that looks pretty clean:



Here it is after a few swipes with the bamboo:

I personally do not believe that pocket screws will add much if anything to your structure. melamine is terrible at holding screws.

If this is an upper shelf/cabinet, I would be more concerned with the hanging system. Having it mounted securely to the wall provides a LOT of the support of upper cabinets.

I would either go for a thick back and screw it to the wall studs or good cleats top and bottom.

Ralph

BG

I am very sure the person would like to know what you want to make first. That way they know if they can or can not help you.

If I was closer I would like to help you.

Arlin

If I'm able to disassemble the project, I will apply pressure to the point of the screw with scrap wood while simultaneously unscrewing.

If not, I'll orient the project so gravity is helping and slowly back the screw out while applying sideways pressure to the head. The goal is to cause the screw threads to contact one side of the hole so they assist in the removal.

Or, with the project still oriented for gravity assist, try spinning the screw at high speed both clockwise and counter-clockwise until any remaining wood fibers holding the screw are destroyed, then extract with something magnetic like a screwdriver.


HTH,


Mike