I'd like to replace the faux (man made) exterior stone veneer on the outside of my house. I really dislike the orangish tones and it really doesn't match my house or the retaining wall stone I'd like to use. One of these stones fell off on it's own and I had no trouble popping two off on my own. The stones are releasing from the "buttered" portion of the mortar which was added to the scratch coat. It would be nice if the breaking of the bond was occurring AT the scratch coat and not leaving the "buttered" part attached.

All this said, I'd like to pop these off and start over with what would be the smartest way and least amount of work. I also have to keep thickness in mind. The stone on the wall is thick and they do make thinner veneers now. Would you consider this route and just go right back over the top of what's left after popping off the existing stone? I really can't think of any other way that doesn't include new lathe (chicken wire), new scratch coat, ect. This isn't an option for me. My other concern is the strength of the bond if I mix up some type S mortar, butter a new stone and then stick it in place. Any reason to think I wouldn't get a good bond? I could also scratch some new groove in what's left with a grinder to create some channels for more grip. Any thoughts would be very appreciated.

I will keep you in mind. I go to lots of antique stores while traveling in - of all places - Indiana - The Hoosier state.

What parts are you looking for in particular?

Same as posted in this thread:

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads...rt=all&vc=1

maybe 12 hours

but most of my projects tend to sit a lot longer than that between steps - a product of family life

Matt,

I should acknowledge the "correct" way to mount an iron vise, even though I have never followed this approach. Vise Instructions

I accomplish the same effect as a mortise by mounting the vise flush with the top and front of the bench without mortising. Then I add a jaw liner and then I cut a fascia strip that is flush with the jaw liner. " />

So, if your vise is mounted so that it protrudes, maybe you could add a fascia strip to the front of the bench. Or, perhaps I misunderstood your question.

Doug

probably more then you paid for it 15 years ago, try 40-50 percent of new price.

Congrats on your acquisition. I hear people complain about their various drum sanders all the time, relating all kinds of bad experiences. I've had my Performax 16-32 for going on 10 years now and still use it on nearly every project. It's one of the most useful and important machines in my shop, couldn't imagine going back to not having it available.

Have you looked at the Kreg beaded face from system? I will admit that I'm not real big on shop gadgets but one came with the Kreg router table setup I bought used. I'm in the process of building new cabinets for my kitchen with inset doors and beaded face frames. I can't even tell you how much time it saved me. I was very skeptical at first and just planned to do the beading old school style because that is what I know but I'm glad I gave the gadget a chance. It has literally saved me hours building the face frames.

In a related story I WILL NOT be buying a dovetail jig

Sounds like fun. Good luck with the classes and good fortune to the school. More schools with reasonably priced programs=more young-uns to pick up the torch. I wish these kids actually knew which end of the torch the fire comes out of R.I.P. High school vocational programs I for at least one will miss you.

The second one handle looks like Masur Birch which is my all time favorite even tho I never used it before.

It just has so much natural figure to it.

Now both saws are well Wonderful. If I ever got one I might be tempted to never use it and put it in a case.

Arlin