Yeah, I get lots of spam from them; have Thunderbird set to @#(&-can them as they come in, so I don't have to look at them. No idea how they got my address, but have noticed that quite a few different sites direct there too...

I have never used Seal-a-cell, but I am wondering if that would blotch like BLO does. Another thing to try is wiping on a thin coat of pure tung oil. It is not as dark as BLO and if your wiping on a thin coat, should not blotch, but that needs some testing.

Your compressor output is likely marginal. Can it output at least 6 CFM at 40 psi? If so, you can run some HVLP conversion guns. If not, you will likely be limited to LVLP guns. But don't get a turbine unless you need portability; as far as I can determine that's their only advantage. Otherwise, a conversion gun is the overall winner, especially with regards to cost.

If the HF gun you have has a 1.4 mm orifice you must be thinning EnduroVar to get it to spray well. EnduroVar is around 44 seconds through a #4 Ford cup and needs a 1.8 mm orifice to spray well through a gravity feed HVLP gun. That's what I use and it sprays very well straight from the can. I have nothing more than a cheap HVLP gun, essentially the same as you can buy at Woodcraft or Grizzly. But if you want to buy something a little better, give Jeff Jewitt a call and discuss your needs with him. I've never heard anyone say he gave them bad advise.

John

Congrats. It is fun, isn't it?

daveferg said:

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Anyway, it's been a rule of thumb to price a used (large) stationary tool at between 50-60% of it's original value.

My question----since some of my tools now sell for considerably higher prices than what I originally paid----which price do you think you should use----the original or the current?

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I used to remember but do not anymore. I am sure others will know tho.

Arlin

I have one and it works fine. I got it with some machines I acquired and have since made two more. As long as you use proper wire and plugs it should be fine. (...and keep the runs an appropriate length)

Doug

Hi folks,

I've been working on a few Foley machines for a few months now, and been pretty successful at rehabbing and using them. I've been leaning heavily on online resources, including Mark Stansbury's blog, FoleyFiler.

WHile I have many of the machines up and running, I find that I'm in need of a couple of the gauges that are used to calibrate the settings.

I'm looking for the following:


*gauge for setting up the Model 352 saw setter, part number 352058, "Feed Mechanism Adjustment Gauge"







And also this...

*gauge for setting the carrier bar height for the retoother (different than the gauge for the filer). It should look like this one in the top left frame:






If you have either of these, I'd like to either buy it, or ask you to photograph it next to a rule or against graph paper so that I can create my own.

If you can help, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

He might try taking a scrap of oak and screw a piece of brass to it. Experiment with sanding and see what happens. If metal does get into the oak, try mineral spirits and a brush/rag to see if it will come off.

Hope this helps.

The stripper may damage the brass.Possibly a card scraper and then Scotch Brite pads to remove the stripper. I know that ferros stock will stain oak,not sure about brass.Can the brass be masked with tape ?

mike