Barn-

WOW!!!


In fact, I need to be in Providence next Wednesday for some bidness....I'm going to look up that Woodcraft store.



Thanks for posting that.

I mitered mine using a router and straightedge. I then routed a grove in each face to set a spline and after installation I attached them to each other with recessed countertop bolts from below.

sroxberg,

If I understand your first question correctly, draw the two rectangles first. Then use push-pull to make the main panel (20" by 40") into a 3-d board. That should leave the hole in the middle that you want. Make it a group or component so later work won't stick to it. (Erase the remaining plane at the bottom of the hole) Then draw your drawer front separately.

Second problem is solved by the follow me tool. Probably the examples in whatever resource you are using will show this use of the tool.

As you learn, your questions may become quite challenging to answer this way. I found that I needed a good reference book to learn more advanced (and useful) aspects of SU. Sketchup for Dummies was useful. Also, a book by Bonnie Roskes called something like Sketchup Exercises is excellent. See web page

Doug

Paslode IME made nails proprietary to their guns for a long time

not sure now I don't own a Paslode gun or nails

Joe

Hi Pat!
It so happens I have rebuilt about 8 or 9 Gerstner chests for nephews of mine; I enjoyed them most when I had to fabricate new pieces for them. They typically have their solid-lumber pieces about 7/16" to 1/2" thick. And they also usually have a 1/4"-thick plywood rear veneered panel, along with about a 1/2"-thick plywood veneered lid-top. With all this, they still are noticeably heavy pieces, so I don't think lumber thicker than 5/8" would really be needed or even desirable.

I haven't gone out for from-scratch plans, but there might be some on www.machinistchest.com to look at.

Good luck!

Chris

You can go to homestead, but Woodcraft, rockler and even Amazon carry them.

I'd use shellac then a good waterborne finish like GF or Cryystalac.

Blue Stain from logs not being sawn when fresh cut. And yes its a mold of sort.

I have some ½" thick rubber mat I need to cut for backing a wooden mount. I don't know what is the best way to proceed anyone?

If that is the 3.25 hp model, I would say yes, they look to list new at 330+ up into the 500's depending on the model.

The rail is higher than the top of the shelf. I think you would cut at the top of the rail.
To get it right, build a jig which wraps both sides and the back so you have a guide which is the same on all 3 faces and doesn't have to be moved while cutting.
You're also probably going to have to create a new fake cap if the center stile was M&T.