That's what I would do if I were designing a plane with an adjustable double iron. That is, the screw moves the chipbreaker back-and-forth.

Regards from Perth

Derek

It's probably not you, but the bits. If your problem is with auger bits, then they need to be sharpened. Also, don't drill all the way through the wood. Drill until the lead screw can be seen on the other side. Then flip the piece over and drill from the opposite side. I get perfectly smooth holes this way with my bits. There's somewhat of an art to sharpening the bits. Once you've figure that out, then you'll be amazed at how well they cut.

This essentially a Stanley 65 block plane but it does not say No. 65 on it like others I've seen. It has a B casting and a patent date behind the frog that says 8-3-97. The knobs are brass which is unusual to my eye. Most curious is the rear frog adjustment knob. Inside it says Bailey Patent Aug. 31, 1858, Aug. 6, 1867. I've never seen brass on these nor a knob like this. I can't find a type study so if you know of one let me know. I've used it for years and never checked it out, just put a new blade and lever cap on it and it worked like a charm.



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I figured this would be the best forum to post this.

thewoodworkersgym.com in the Milwaukee area is looking for semi - experienced woodworkers to come on board as shop monitors, instructors & possibly help with the facility build out.

For more details contact thewoodworkersgym.com

If you open the link and scroll down you will find another link with the technical specifications and installation instructions for the product.

Thanks for posting! Most interesting!

Great score I'd say! Congrats. The plane seems to be in very nice condition with nearly all of the japanning. Little rust, clearly no pitting so easy to clean up. If you have a well matching replacement handle, it's a quick way to solve the little issue. But honestly, the handle seems to be easy to repair. It's just the horn otherwise it's in perfect condition.

The saw is an eye catcher. With rosewood handle and clear etching! Easy to clean up, I'd say. These don't show up all that often - here in Germany never!

Well done!

Klaus

Depending on the panel in your house, you may be able to add a 2-pole breaker plus a mechanical interlock to the main breaker. Your whole house will be live on the generator, so you'd have to shut most breakers off to use the generator and well pump, but a few light bulbs and/or a small TV for information/entertainment won't be much of an additional load, and you'd be ready for a larger generator down the road.

Having grown up on a well, in a very small pocket of houses that didn't have city water, I can relate to how bad it can get with no water for extended periods, like a week (the ice storm started December 16, 1973 in southern CT). Seven kids. No showers. No heat. Melting snow for toilet tank water. House almost catching fire from the hearth getting too hot from green willow and locust coals. NOT fun.

Pinewood Forge. Del Stubbs makes really great forged knives. IMO, worth the extra cost over the Frost (Swedish from Mora) knives. I have a couple of PF hook knives for carving the bowls for spoons. Blue Spruce has also started to make the Sloyd Knives. I have no doubt they are very good. Kind of pricey at $85, but they incorporate a coating on the blade to mitigate corrosion. I personally haven't seen or used a BS knife.

Turners repeat a lot of silly silly things they've heard as if they were true. Leaving the piece an inch thick should be adequate. Inch and a quarter at the heaviest. If you've got the standard heart up capacity-cut bowl, expect to lose around 8% of your dimension to distortion. that's 4% per side, if the piece is relatively straight grained. Translates to a bit less than a half inch either side and the same half inch off the end grain. Will leave you with a wall thickness of half an inch, which should be adequate.

Make the turning a continuous, or nearly continuous curve in and out. If you go flat/broad on the bottom, you'll probably crack. Put it, naked, in your unheated garage for a month or two, then bring into the house for final equalization. No bags, no boxes, no waxes required. Measure the mortise (or tenon) to determine loss of dimension. When the cross-grain is about 1/16 to 1/8 per inch of long grain, weigh the piece. Week later, weigh again. Same, go final, not, repeat next week.

Here's a 14+ Cherry cut to ~1"for example.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...age-14.jpg

Nice pattern for a large capacity salad bowl here, with a no slip grip for lifting it on the outside. Keep them wide, not deep, so it's easier to toss edge to center.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...ok-One.jpg

This has great capacity, but the pattern would make for a difficult toss. Potato chip suitable, however.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...irch-1.jpg