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  What Battery Charger...
Posted by: gMike - 10-13-2015, 04:14 PM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (2)

Find one of those little universal wall warts that have multiple output voltages. I've a couple kicking around somewhere acquired over the years. Best Buy or Source or similar type place.

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  A Small Aircraft Carrier for Me
Posted by: jteneyck - 10-13-2015, 03:05 PM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools - Replies (4)

Awesome score John!! I'm in a basement shop as well, it is a challenge getting heavy stuff down the steps. Hope you have a straight shot in. Looking forward to pics.

g

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  Countersink recommendations
Posted by: ScooterDawg - 10-13-2015, 10:54 AM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools - Replies (9)

Probably not the best out there but I've had good success with the Amana Timberline brand. They are imported but Amana does a good job of qualifying their import brands and the carbide will last you quite a while.

https://www.routerbits.com/carbide-tip-c...drill-bit/

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  Drum Sander Abrasive
Posted by: bobs64ford352 - 10-13-2015, 10:53 AM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools - Replies (3)

buy 3" or 6" paper and cut your own.

it is not hard and once you have the first one cut you have a template for all the rest.

as for grit>: I buy 100 120 150 and 180

mostly use 100 front and 150 back

Where I buy my paper Industral Abrasives

Joe

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  More GFCI questions. When is it required?
Posted by: atgcpaul - 10-13-2015, 09:26 AM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (1)

Yes, it is wrong. Lights do not go on GFI's.

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  Grizzly shaper, good deal?
Posted by: kscott - 10-13-2015, 08:55 AM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools - Replies (2)

With a stock feeder? I'm guessing it's already gone.

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  sliding locked tailstock
Posted by: smithgl12 - 10-13-2015, 08:51 AM - Forum: Woodturning - Replies (3)

There's a big nut on the bottom of the locking mechanism for your tailstock. Perhaps that could use a little tightening so you have more or less adjustability with tightening your tailstock up.

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  Happy Birthday Across the Pond
Posted by: blackhat - 10-12-2015, 11:25 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools - Replies (5)

Alles Gute zum Geburtstag

Grattis på födelsedagen

gefeliciteerd

Hul'q'umi'num' / Halq'eméylem / hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ ... Ahh, didn't like it. First Nations--West Coast N. A. (Totem Poles.)

And, many more!

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  Kerfing plane or rebate saw plane
Posted by: JoethePro - 10-12-2015, 10:55 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools - Replies (8)

A rip filed stair saw with two threaded inserts spaced to use whatever fence you have available would work too.

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  GFCI weirdness
Posted by: atgcpaul - 10-12-2015, 09:38 PM - Forum: Home Improvement - Replies (1)

atgcpaul said:

Think the UF cable may be nicked or something?




I wouldn't think so. If there were a ground fault (cut in the insulation allowing current leaking to the ground) in your wiring, a GFCI should be tripping all the time, even without the photocell installed.

Quote:

So I noticed that with the 2nd GFCI tripped but the first one on, I didn't have any current on any of the individual wires at the lamp post according to my non-contact voltage tester.




Most non-contact testers detect whether a wire is energized ie: whether voltage is present in the wire. The simple ones do not indicate whether or not current is flowing. A wire with current also has voltage, but a wire with voltage doesn't necessarily have current. it depends if there a complete circuit.


Quote:

But the weird thing was with the light switch in the off position, my tester was still beeping as before when the black and ground wires were close together at the pole.




Not 100 percent sure I'm picturing this correctly, but if you're using your non-contact tester on the wires downstream from the switch, and it's indicating energized wires, it sounds like you may have the switch on the neutral leg. ie: with the switch off, the hot is energized all the way out to the lamp and back along the neutral to the switch. The switch should be on the black wire, not the white. With a correctly installed in-line switch, your non-contact tester shouldn't be detecting any voltage beyond the switch.* Even if the switch is on the black wire, it's possible that black and white have been switched on hot and neutral at some previous connection in the circuit. I would start by checking that black is hot and white is neutral at all connections along that circuit, starting at the first outlet. I'd use a voltage meter with contact probes instead of a non-contact tester. At every point along your circuit with all switches off and GFCIs reset, you should have 115-120 volts between the black wire and the ground (bare wire) and 0 volts between the white white and the ground. If you find 115 +/- volts between a white wire and ground, then you have hot and neutral switched someplace.

*all that is assuming that the switch to your lamp is an in-line switch, if switch controlling the lamp is on a switch leg, then you could have voltage out to the lamp.

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