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What Battery Charger... |
Posted by: gMike - 10-13-2015, 04:14 PM - Forum: Home Improvement
- Replies (2)
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Find one of those little universal wall warts that have multiple output voltages. I've a couple kicking around somewhere acquired over the years. Best Buy or Source or similar type place.
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sliding locked tailstock |
Posted by: smithgl12 - 10-13-2015, 08:51 AM - Forum: Woodturning
- Replies (3)
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There's a big nut on the bottom of the locking mechanism for your tailstock. Perhaps that could use a little tightening so you have more or less adjustability with tightening your tailstock up.
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GFCI weirdness |
Posted by: atgcpaul - 10-12-2015, 09:38 PM - Forum: Home Improvement
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atgcpaul said:
Think the UF cable may be nicked or something?
I wouldn't think so. If there were a ground fault (cut in the insulation allowing current leaking to the ground) in your wiring, a GFCI should be tripping all the time, even without the photocell installed.
Quote:
So I noticed that with the 2nd GFCI tripped but the first one on, I didn't have any current on any of the individual wires at the lamp post according to my non-contact voltage tester.
Most non-contact testers detect whether a wire is energized ie: whether voltage is present in the wire. The simple ones do not indicate whether or not current is flowing. A wire with current also has voltage, but a wire with voltage doesn't necessarily have current. it depends if there a complete circuit.
Quote:
But the weird thing was with the light switch in the off position, my tester was still beeping as before when the black and ground wires were close together at the pole.
Not 100 percent sure I'm picturing this correctly, but if you're using your non-contact tester on the wires downstream from the switch, and it's indicating energized wires, it sounds like you may have the switch on the neutral leg. ie: with the switch off, the hot is energized all the way out to the lamp and back along the neutral to the switch. The switch should be on the black wire, not the white. With a correctly installed in-line switch, your non-contact tester shouldn't be detecting any voltage beyond the switch.* Even if the switch is on the black wire, it's possible that black and white have been switched on hot and neutral at some previous connection in the circuit. I would start by checking that black is hot and white is neutral at all connections along that circuit, starting at the first outlet. I'd use a voltage meter with contact probes instead of a non-contact tester. At every point along your circuit with all switches off and GFCIs reset, you should have 115-120 volts between the black wire and the ground (bare wire) and 0 volts between the white white and the ground. If you find 115 +/- volts between a white wire and ground, then you have hot and neutral switched someplace.
*all that is assuming that the switch to your lamp is an in-line switch, if switch controlling the lamp is on a switch leg, then you could have voltage out to the lamp.
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