Mark hasn't been around for years

Arlin, this might help. Link Are you sure about the Serial Number?

John

I inlaid a few bell flowers on a straight line vine (a la Tommie Mac), on a plaque that I did last year and liked the result. While obviously a first try, it added to the piece. " />

I now want to do some more pieces as Christmas gifts and would like to once again add flower. This time however, I would like to make the vine "undulate" as opposed to being just a straight line.

Can anyone point me towards a pattern(s) that I can trace on my work and use to inlay?

I mentioned a while ago I had a paint fading problem with the paint on my house which was resided with Hardi board in 2006. After the first painting the professional painter said it might have been his fault so he did it over. Then when it faded again he got Sherwin William's involved and they said it might have been their paint that was at fault. So SW paid the painter to do it over again, 3rd time.

Well it faded and so my contractor got up in Hardi's face about it and they sent out two tech service guys and a quality guy. They looked it over, said there was a problem and took some boards off and took them back to the lab. A month later they call and say their product is not at fault and that I should have used better paint and had a professional do it. Gee, did they not even read their report that said who did it and the tests they did to show they did it right? They offered to comp me 10 gallons of paint to have it redone on my dime again.

I was now pizzed, so I called in some favors. A visit to some people down the hall that work in construction markets and they set me right up with how to chemically test the siding to prove it is their fault. I can't say what the tests were but they are semi simple and so I did them. I got the results and sure enough it is the siding's problem.

So I called yesterday and talked with the QC guy and told him what I had done and what I had found. His one comment was "how did you learn about that series of tests?" I told him I did not want to disclose that.

Just a few minutes ago the Hardi rep for my area called me and said they will gladly pay to have someone they know repaint my entire house with a paint of their choosing and using a special prep system on my house that will be no cost to me at all.

The rep also asked me know I knew about the tests and how the did I do them?

This is a good offer but I was actually hoping they would surrender and pay to have the house resided with the baked on finish. I am still not 100% certain that if they paint it the problem will not reoccur. I need to see the offer in writing to see what or how they are going to guarantee that what they do will last.

What would the woodnet collective do? Take this offer or push them harder?

Was the price changed from $275-$325? Still a good deal on a small forge and anvil. While Vulcans aren't considered top of the line, that one looks like it has good edges. The real plus is that anvils like this don't ring, so you won't lose your hearing or anger the neighbors.

Have not had problem
Steve

I had a great time at the Mars, PA meet a couple weeks ago. If you are at all interested in old hand tools, it is worth your while to attend, even if you aren't really a collector.

I live in Greenville and there are several.
But, most of the time I order from Wall Lumber in NC.
Cheaper and they ship to me.
Or I find a local guy with saw mille and dryer
Good luck,
Steve

Jussi, I think the sticking point here is the "not darken it part". That aside, I think a coat of garnet shellac on walnut really looks nice...maybe topcoated with a durable waterborne that doesn't have any tint. As for the sanding, I usually stop at 180 grit, the plywood won't need much and the rails/stiles can be touched up sanding with the grain. You didn't mention doors, are they complete or are the panels available for pre finishing (before assembly?). Shellac sprays really nicely, a 1# cut, one coat, clean the equipment with household ammonia. Many waterbornes are ready to spray from the can, but if not they are (carefully) thinned with water...be sure follow the manufacturer's instructions for the amount of thinner. BTW, I'd make sure the shellac is dewaxed, and take a piece of scrap to test the appearance of the finish before you commit.

if you do not want to fix it I will take it

<<<<I would fix it

And I would not complain these units take a lot of abuse to drive a pinless head