I have the 22-565. I think $100 is a fair price, considering the new knives.

For as infrequently as you need to have a chain sharpened it would be easiest to just let a shop do it and pay the $7 or so. But if you want to do it yourself all you need is a file of the correct diameter. They cost $3 or $4. Your saw owner's manual probably has a section in it about how to sharpen the chain. If not, Google is your friend. A step up from a file alone is to use a file guide. Lots of options there, too, but I think Oregon and Granberg make two of the better ones. After several filings you will remove so much of the tooth that you also will need to file down the rakers. For that you will need a flat file and depth gauge guide. A few more dollars. But at your current pace, you shouldn't need to do that for another 15 to 20 years if you buy a second chain.

John, who has to sharpen the 135 link chains for my chainsaw lumber mill a couple of times a day.

John

I would suggest using google with the manufacturer and number that is visible on the top of the switch.

http://www.socomec.com/range-load-break-...mp;view=picture

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/socom...em_1291983

You gave me a good idea about the radius on the ends. I've got a walnut slab ready to turn into a headboard and didn't quite know how to handle the ends. I think I'll go with a radius.

I used a router sled to flatten the slab. I still need to to finish sand it and finish it. I think I'm gonna use Libron Finishing Oil. I've never used it but my kid swears by it so I'll give it a try.

Beautiful work!

Those knuckles are rolled, not extruded or milled from solid.
You might choose to fabricate your own hinge. I know that isn't a particularly attractive alternative, but those look rather rare. Alternately, you could inquire about custom manufacture. I believe Horton Brass will fabricate things upon request. Somebody will anyway, but without doubt, that will cost a lot. That's why I suggest fabricating them yourself, and that's why I used that language. You notice, I didn't say, "You will enjoy fabricating them yourself."
Obviously, another alternative is to choose another type of hinge. If you're determined to have those, and you find a vendor, let forum members know.
I also think you might try antique/junk shops. It's a long shot, but there is usually a vendor in that marketplace the scrounges and sells old, unwanted hardware from furniture and fixtures. Expect little, that is a very long shot.
Good luck.

All the magnetic sheet I've seen has been quite weak as well.

Lee Valley make a similar jig using rare earth magnets.

Since a heater is considered a continuous load by the electric code, you're using up to 32A at 240V, or 7.7kW. At my $0.10/kW-hr (marginal, after the initial minimum usage, but including energy, delivery, and taxes) that would be $0.77/hr. Most folks pay more than I do. Not cheap to run.

But gas isn't cheap to install, including the heater itself. Though gas is much cheaper usually than electric power.

In other words, I have no idea. It depends on how much it will run to maintain 40F. And how long the desired payback period in savings of gas over electric is.

It almost sounds like electric may be ok in this instance.

what sizes? I might have

the nails are not advancing

what brand are they ? Generic?

the solution depends on the gun on a straight rail gun you can try raising the nails up one slot in the magazine.

angled is harder probably buy different nails.

Joe