Look at the Bosch post below.
Excellent tool, nearly Grex level.
I have shot tons of all size pins in both hardwood and softwood. Sinks them every time without a jam.
Buy the Grex pins tho.
Rusty

I'll have to look for that episode.

why not just put flagstone over it?

I just purchased a Festool CT26E vacuum cleaner after my Fein Dustex bit the dust. Pricy, but it has many features I like. That is not the issue here.

I spent some time thinking over how I could hook up the Dust Deputy. I have the original Deluxe version that comes with two buckets. I use one bucket as a bracket.

What Oneida have done is create an airtight box that fits like a sustainer onto the top of the machine - the Ultimate Dust Deputy. It is very expensive locally - $500. Others have attempted to build their own version by converting a sustainer. It is a lot of work to make it air tight, and I imagined how difficult it would be to empty each time.

I decided to go in a different direction. It occurred to me that I could use a Sustainer as a base for a bucket. That is, bolt a bucket to a narrow sustainer, which would fit to the top of the CT26E. I have one from a C12 drill/driver.



The hose connecting the inlet of the vac and the outlet of the DD is plastic/vinyl - just a 2" version of the hosing similar to that used for the dust extractor and machinery (although the spiral reinforcing is not metal, as in the larger hoses).

All of a sudden I am reading about static build up with the Dust Deputy, and that it can fry motors and circuit boards. I have used the DD for a number of years and never experienced static shocks. How would I know this is occurring without feeling a tingle in my hand? The Fein (that bit the dust) requires a new circuit board - could this have been due to static electricity? There was no warning. One of my friends, who specialised in dust extraction for surgeries says it is hooey, and the reason was likely heat as a result of dust collecting in the filter.

How big an issue is this, and what can be done with the original system to ensure all is safe, if necessary?


Regards from Perth

Derek

Some time ago I bought a bunch of Sycamore, large beams (3 x 6) with an idea to make a workbench. After letting them acclimate awhile (a decade) in my shop, I decide to build a small carving bench with them. I intend to make trestle style legs, like on a European bench with stock dressed to 3x3. So I needed to buck up a couple of these beams and rip them straight down the middle.

So I am almost completely Neanderthal these days and while I still have a TS, DP and BS, I vowed not to use anything but muscle-powered hand tools for this entire project. So I wasn't looking forward to ripping 12-feet of 3-inch thick sycamore, but I was determined to do just that.

I bucked it all up into rough lengths first, figuring this would be easier than trying to rip the whole thing first. Dunno it that's true or not, but that's what I did. I have dozens of saws but I wanted to try the Seaton saws that Mike Wenzloff made for me years ago, I think mine were among the first to have his medallion, but pre-date the etch he uses now. Through the years I have used the saws, but mostly in softwoods and thin stuff at that. This was going to give both the saws and me a real workout.

To make a long story short, these saws just sailed through the wood! It was almost fun and quite satisfying. I did all of the cross cuts and the rip cuts in just under an hour and a half, moving the saw at a nice even pace. Once I got into the rhythm of it, it went quickly. I used the normal grip and at times two- handed. I focused on making the longest cuts I could using the full length of the blade.

I was worried that I might inadvertently pull the saw out of the kerf carelessly and bend the saw plate, but I learned to peek at the saw as it traveled on the upstroke and see when the little nib at the toe of the saw appeared and used that as a guide to know when to reverse thrusters and drive the saw down. I wonder if that is what the nib was used for? Doesn't matter, it worked for me. I've never enjoyed using a tool more. What wonderful saws! Thanks again Mike!

Here's a picture made during a cut and then after. A fun day in the shop!

David

Ideal is whatever the RH is upstairs if that's where your cabinets and furniture are destined. So if you have no humidifier upstairs and the RH up there in the winter goes down as low as your basement then I wouldn't do anything. A difference in temperature between upstairs and down is nearly irrelevant, but one in RH will require more thought during the build to avoid drawers and doors that bind or have gaps that are too large, expansion/shrinkage cracks, etc.

John

Black Arkies vary from one batch to another, just like all Novaculite stones, but I would estimate a really fine one to be approx 6K...

Baby oil is good if you must use oil...the thinner it is the better....I prefer mineral spirits because it evaporates, instead of oxidizing and turning to varnish... oil oxidizes in the pores of the stone...not good...

And another better smelling lube is WD40...

How about a bump in case someone missed the first.

Thanks

If I'm not mistaken, the instructions for installing a Byrd head in this thing covers the drive belt removal and installation.

It is the weight of the atmosphere pressing downward or enveloping that applies the pressure to laminate with the closer to sea level the more the weight Once you get around 10000+ ft of elevation the vacuum is no longer adequate

so if you are between 0 and 9500ft the vacuum press will supply more than adequate pressure to laminate successfully