There is a plugin for sketchup lite that can create the .stl file your library will need to slice and print it for you.

Think about how the part will print as you draw and orient it.

Ask the library to help you learn how to do it or start watching youtube videos. Watching how they work will help you make more effective designs to print.

The software is open source or free so you have access to everything.

Congrats! I used a few of those from that era when I worked in a cabinet shop many moons ago. I thought I was in heaven, as you couldn't even tell they were running if it was noisy, since they had nearly zero vibration. And even though it's an old-school fence, it was soooo much better than my dad's little 8" Craftsman from the 50's, and once you get used to how to work it, it can be very precise. I'm envious, even though I have a 90's Unisaw in my shop.

And no, that's not normal. Something is stopping the blade from retracting fully. It should go below the table fully. At least, every Unisaw I've ever used did, including that vintage.

Look here: https://www.google.com/search?q=leather+...QIVAh8-Ch2G-w8R

Or approach a local harness maker and ask him to make one to specifications.

You might want to look at Bosch. They are quieter but get ready to get your checkbook out, they aren't cheap.

The other option might be to build an enclosure to muffle the noise a bit. Ridgid sells a muffler for their shop vacs but it isn't very good, they're still LOUD.

I would use whichever maple you can buy cheaper. Poplar is easier to work, but it's a lot softer and will dent far more easily. If you want flat panels I would use MDF. I know you said you don't like it, but it's very stable and paints beautifully. It's also cheap. If you are going to make raised panels then I'd use maple (although MDF works great for that, too), and I'd at least prime them before assembly. I'd also tint the primer close to the final color.

John

One time use?? check your local tool rental place

I've got a -20C cold room at work on the 2nd floor that has developed a refrigerant leak. The condenser unit is on the roof which is separated by offices on the 3rd floor.

First service call was 6 weeks ago. Unit was slowly warming up. Tech didn't bring his leak detector but did check a few exposed joints near the expansion valve and on the condenser with a bubble solution and 2 hours later, couldn't find a leak, but added 16lbs of 404a. I think it holds 35lbs.

2 weeks after that, I call in again. Same symptoms, different tech. He has his detector and tried to trace it out even getting as far into the chase as possible. 6+ hrs of checking and only finds a loose fitting near the expansion valve. It was wrapped in foam so that's why Tech 1 didn't find it. He tightens it down, adds another 16lbs gas and goes.

2 weeks go by and like clockwork, Tech 2 is out again. Still no obvious leak and he shows me an intermittent leak on one of the compressors which tightens down but it doesn't explain how much gas we're losing. This time he has to add 25lbs.

These visits aren't cheap so I'm trying to get their boss to find it for real. I know they have bigger jobs and as I see it, it's steady work. It's surprisingly hard to find someone else to take this system on.

Anyway, what's the recommended path forward? I'm prepared to let the cold box warm up to room temp. The contents are stable for a while. From what I've researched, once the system is off, all the refrigerant is recovered. The system is pressurized to 300psi with dry nitrogen and an added tracer gas. The leak is hunted down--just with a leak detector or will the leak audibly "whistle"?--and repaired. The nitrogen is evacuated again and either pressure tested again and/or held under vacuum for 24hrs+. If it passes that, the system is charged up again.

Thanks for the advice
Paul

I finally was able to follow Marv's advice and convert a Disston 196 docking saw to a rip saw. This one is only 24 inches long. I filed it with an 8 degree rake, with 10 - 8 degrees at the toe. It helps counter the pronounced crown in the blade.



The tree was an ornamental apricot that died. It was planted about 21 years ago on the day of my granddaughter's birth. I am trying to make her something from it, for this Christmas.







Riving sure didn't work. Though I did rive out a little and may try and chip carve a Christmas ornament, or maybe a spoon. It is some hard stuff, however.

Eric

The link says revolutionary depth adjustment, but then doesn't even show how it's done. It's not even on the Bosch website. Would rather hold one in my hands before I get one.

I do have the same complaint you do about the original Colt - the depth adjustment is finicky.

Disclaimer - I am not a professional electrician, electrical engineer or possess other credentials. Having said that, I don't see why a 40 amp circuit would not be sufficient. Do not be taken in by the "but the starting amp draw is 60 or 80 amps!!!!" Circuit breakers are designed to tolerate a few seconds load in excess of the rated amperage to allow for starting surges. I doubt a motor with a 15 amp dataplate rating would be happy on a 15 amp circuit, especially an air compressor or other motor starting with under load but there's no need to go overboard. My gut feeling is that a 40 amp circuit for a 29 amp load should be sufficient. You could look for a manual for your compressor online and see what the recommended electrical service is.