Yes!

Sorry, no help, I know. I've got a key chuck and like it. I've never used a keyless Jacob's chuck but on my drill, I use the motor to turn the chuck in my hand to tighten it. You won't have that on a lathe.

I got mine from Craft Supply

I have an SDG, and the first 4-5 years I used it I had a 55 gallon drum for a dust bin. We moved, and I lost ceiling height forcing me back to the factory 35 gallon. I really appreciated the extra volume the 55 gallon drum held and wish all the world I could still use it. That said, with the 55 gallon, I didn't line it with a bag, just wheeled it out to the yard when it was full and dumped it (we live in the country). With the 35 gallon, I can use 40 gallon yard waste bags and pull them out when it's full; quite a bit handier in the winter. Even so, I'd still go with the 55 gallon if I could.
My current shop is 24'x 32', and doing the duct work yourself shouldn't be a problem, especially if you use what you got. You have the basics, be sometimes you can't avoid a 90º el or some other less-than-perfect layout...don't fret it. Don't forget to do everything possible to get the largest ports on your tools as well.

The garage door thing will look a little funny, but to me it comes down to do what you have too. I can't imagine it not being a clearance problem, but you seem to have that aspect solved.

I've never vented my unit outside, so can only guess what the sound will be. But it seems to me like the noise outside will be mostly rushing air, which should be too bad. Compared to the motor running, tools running, and the rushing air through ductwork and the cyclone body inside the shop. But that's a guess; I just can't imagine it being too bad outside. You've thought through the heat thing (?) I guess, but I would think that would be a bigger problem in Michigan.

Mine gets as much use straight edging rough sawn lumber as it does for sheet goods (the main reason I bought it). But I also find it handier for trimming doors than a circ saw/guide routine I used to do. I bevel ripped some 2x4 stock for a shed when I first got it (TS55) and it was great for that. I've also seen a Triton model advertised recently, though I haven't heard squat (reviews) about them.

>>>> wondering is if it has roller bearing guides for the blade?

Give them a call and ask them.

When my parent's used to do the starving artists shows and made picturesque hand painted boards, my dad used the ring tops off of the beer and soda cans. They were very strong and re-enforced his need to consume his favorite beverage.

Welcome!

I like the Woodriver tools just fine. The problem with the sets is that you always end up with at least a couple tools you will basically never use.

I started out with a set of Benjamin's Best (PSI sells them, I think.). They worked great for me. After I figured out what I needed and how I like to turn, I re-ground several of them to make tools I wanted.

If you have a good idea what you need, I would recommend buying individual tools. Otherwise, a set can be a good idea. Worked for me! Also, IMO, the mini tools are too small. I'd get the regular size ones.

My advice is to start with inexpensive tools. Depending on your experience with grinding, you'll turn a lot of your first tools to dust anyway.

You can buff, but let it fully dry first. Like a week.

Can't address your other questions.

I would start with mineral spirits on an old T-shirt or blue shop paper towel. It won't hurt the finish and it will remove oily dirt and wax, including silicone containing ones like Pledge, whereas Murphy's won't or won't very quickly. If there is anything that the MS doesn't remove, then follow up with the Murphy's Oil Soap.

John

I have an LT18, older Italian version, and I see no need for a resaw fence. Not to sound like a broken record but my bandsaw resaws within very tight tolerance with the stock fence. If you need more height, make an auxiliary fence to attach to your stock fence. Otherwise, proper bandsaw tuning is your friend. I had a chinese version, open stand, 14" Delta prior to this BS and it resawed nice and straight too. Not as effortlessly as my current Laguna, but it resawed with the fence parallel to the blade with very acceptable results. I'm not a bandsaw expert by any means so I'm confident it's not too hard to achieve if you have good tires, at least an MVP Olsen blade, and your guides set where they should be. I'm sure others can offer further advise much better then mine. Nonetheless, keep your money in your pocket until you know for sure it's "needed".

I know brushless technology is superior to brush systems in general but in the case of battery power tools I make an exception. Based primarily on personal experience with Makita drivers and impacts I don't see a huge difference in performance and I use them a LOT at work. Combined with the fact that the tools are disposable and you are really buying the batteries I don't see the benefits of brushless justifying the cost.

If it was significantly more powerful and less weight I'd consider but not based on the current configuration.