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  routing a hole
Posted by: mikey2222 - 12-17-2015, 12:33 AM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (5)

When I have done these in the past I did the hole before assembling the box, and cut the hole out with scroll saw, though a jig saw could be used, then with a bearing guided bit I refined the edge. I've made rounds, which are quite easy. ellipses can be done, but getting into the tight edges I've always had to do some fine hand tool work, so a more gradual corner works better. When done finish assembly.....

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  Forstner bit set?
Posted by: JDuke - 12-16-2015, 11:41 PM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (7)

I don't have any experience to compare them to others, but I have been pretty happy with the Colt Maxicut Forstner bits.

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  I am looking for a loan of a tool
Posted by: Arlin Eastman - 12-16-2015, 10:11 PM - Forum: Woodturning - Replies (1)

Hi Arlin,
I have a 3/4 Sorby that I can send to you ..

Don in Medford

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  I just want to post a few things I learned and maybe you can too
Posted by: Arlin Eastman - 12-16-2015, 10:06 PM - Forum: Woodturning - No Replies

Since it takes me awhile to do things and I hate repeating things or even guessing I do this

1. Use a Angle Gauge when doing two parts that need to match.

2. When making a box or any other turned object that needs a lid. When making the cut to separate the top or lid from the base I leave a 32nd of wood on the base instead of cutting it flush so I know where I can hollow to.

I also found out lately that when I put Deft oil on an object while it is not moving it really soaks in and than I turn it up to 1800 rpm and get it hot and it brings out a gloss and seals it up nicely and I do the same with Shellac afterwards.

Anyone else have anything? Add at any time.

Arlin

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  Peachtree Woodworking
Posted by: WaterlooMarc - 12-16-2015, 06:25 PM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (2)

WaterlooMarc said:


Just got me my order faster than Amazon prime. Never used them before but they just moved up my list.




Makes sense. You're only 2.5 hours away by car. You must have caught the mail cycle at the right time. I'll bet if I ordered from them, it would be at least 3-4 days. Closest large woodworking place I order from is in Utah. I usually get stuff from them in 2 days. Lee Valley and most of the rest tend to get shipped from back east and it averages about a week. Some places sell both via Amazon and their own store. I can sometimes get things faster thru Amazon than through the normal on-line store. I think one of those is Hartville Tool in Ohio.

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  Two out of three Christmas presents..
Posted by: Kizar_Sozay - 12-16-2015, 06:00 PM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (1)

I like it good job.

Arlin

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  You got to know when to fold them
Posted by: Kizar_Sozay - 12-16-2015, 05:53 PM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (5)

Was making Christmas presents. Two are in another post.
The third is an eyeglass display. I picked out some nice mahogany. Then I made a pattern for the ends (shelves and a backing in between). Resaw the plank and mill on the planer. Cut out the rough pieces with about an 1/8" overhang on the pattern edge. Clamp to the table and get the flush cut bit out.

Instant disaster. The bit I used wasn't long enough to cut both at once and I should have taken the first pass with a climb cut. Didn't do either and the pieces split out. The pics show the disaster. I held the pattern back in the picture. I certainly wasn't taking that big a bite:



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  out of square half lap
Posted by: b-bob - 12-16-2015, 03:50 PM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (6)

If you are measuring the top to bottom and side to side at the center of the face frame, then your frame is a quadrilateral but not not a rectangle.

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  Drill press stand ideas?
Posted by: WaterlooMarc - 12-16-2015, 02:04 PM - Forum: Woodworking - Replies (4)

A recent issue of Wood magazine had plans for building your own.
HTH.

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  How to sharpen iron on a bevel up jointer?
Posted by: overland - 12-16-2015, 01:46 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools - Replies (3)

overland said:


I mean, what angle do you use, and do you camber the blade at all?




For my block planes, I grind the blade at 25° and then freehand to anything between 30° and 50° depending on the application. As all of them are bedding at 12-1/2° that gives me an effective cutting angle of 42-1/2° (essentially standard pitch) to 62° (essentially half-pitch). I don't get wound around the axle about having a 37° blade available as so far, getting it SHARP had handled all of my endgrain situations.

I do add some camber on my LN164 blade. How much? Can't give you a measurement. Enough that the corners don't dig. There is probably just a touch on the block plane too but nothing I'm doing intentionally. The LA-Jack gets some too but again, mostly to prevent digging and I'm using it more as a short jointer than as a jack plane (except for occasionally using a toothed blade when all else has failed me).

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