I think I remove the last 2 strips of wood. I'd remake it as one piece, I'd also taper it so it is flush with the floor and the tile. I'd also think about making it contrasting with the oak versus trying to match it... or not.

Also, your tiles look like they are lined up pretty good, I'd consider eliminating the grout line between the wood and tile.


Just some thoughts...

I do have the LR32, and I doubt it will fit the Porter Cable 7518 as I believe the base is too big. I am not sure of the Fein though as I am not familiar with it. I could give you the dimensions of that would fit after work.

I've made several drawers over the years. Years ago I used to use brushing lacquer for drawers (it dries fast). The smell was too oppressive. Nowadays I use shellac. It dries fast too.

I sand the board before cutting the dovetails and I finish sanding after assembly.

The finish never affected my fit of the drawers but I always used metal track drawer hardware.

Wish I could help ya, but I have no idea what to offer up.

Just wanted you to know I'm thinking.

Joel

Nice looking and clever. Tis the season to make display cases I guess.

Out here you have to show proof that you have a proper spray booth to purchase conversion varnish. That would be your best choice if you have the set up.

Precat lacquer withy a vinyl sealer would be your best bet.

GF sells crosslinkers for their waterbased polys that may also work. Safer to apply as well

They're using hex sockets these days? Mine is probably 10+ years old and has a 3/16" hex head. Socket works but I don't have mine under the table so don't really need it.

No. You need a 10.

As far as I recall, Coleman lamp fuel is white gas. I don't think you want to run it in your heater.

Salt saw?