This has been sold.

Hey folks. I bought this for a project table saw restoration and never ended up using it. I'm letting it go for less than half of what these are going for online. Asking $130 available for local pickup in Albion, MI or shipping paid by buyer. It about 15 lbs, so with adequate packaging, let's say it's 18 pounds. I'd estimate about $40 shipping. Anything more and I'll cover it. Lower 48 states only. I'll accept PayPal standard, Venmo, personal check if I know you from the forums, or money order. 

Here's a quick copy/paste from the Jet website:

• COMPATIBILITY: Fits all JET ProShop, ProShop II, and JTAS-10 Table Saws
  
  
• USE WITH RAIL SETS (SOLD SEPARATELY): 30" rip (708483) or 52" rip (708484)
  

• Manufacturer: JPW Industries
  
  
• Part Number: 725005
  
  
• Item Weight: 14.3 pounds
  
  
• Product Dimensions: 43.5 x 14.25 x 5.8 inches
  

Alongside my previous thread about ridge venting there is the issue of re-insulating the attic. 
The existing insulation is old and matted, thus little R value - as is indicated by the fact that when it's 90+ outside here in SE Indiana my ceiling is also 90+ degrees (by an infrared thermometer, assuming the emissivity is within proper range) whilst the floor is 70 degrees.
According to the home inspection last year he doesn't think the insulation contains asbestos, but we didn't have it tested either.

Question-
I'm finding two schools of thought, so to speak, on the subject of removing the old insulation before adding more  - one is to remove it and the other is to leave it.
I find both to be fairly compelling in their pros and cons. I'm leaning towards just leaving it only because it's less work, but what would you do/recommend?


On that note, I also read that since the existing insulation has a paper face that additional insulation (on top of the old) should be unfaced. Does that sound right?
Lastly, I'm wondering that if I leave the old insulation should I run the new rolls of insulation between the joists or cross over the joists?
At the moment I'm not considering doing blown in insulation. One reason is because the new vented soffit won't be don't done for quite a while (due to contractor availability) and I need to get this attic re-insulated asap (as soon as it cools down a bit) and I'm thinking it will be exponentially easier to slide baffles up into the eaves from the outside of the house when the old soffit is taken out rather than me trying to crawl under a 4/12 pitch to get the baffle back in there from inside the attic. So with rolled fiberglass I can keep the insulation from blocking up the eaves whereas with blown-in insulation I won't be able to keep it out.

Vintage Disston Miter saw, 24", and miter stand/box, mounted on wooden stand to clamp to bench. saw with fresh resharpen,
pickup in southern Indiana (across river from Louisville, KY).   listed in Louisville craigslist. $75
Ray Knight
812-282-4647
rayknight@twc.com

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I sincerely hope this doesn't turn into what most Sawstop topics do...that is: the pro/con argument. Anyway, we had a fairly rough thunderstorm 2 nights ago with lots of lightning. Normally when this is in the weather forecast I'll unplug my SS and a few other tools that have some electronic controls on them just in case we get hit with a surge. In this case the storm wwasn't even a mention in the late news weather and i left those tools plugged in. So far I haven't found any damage so I lucked out. But that brings me to my question: do you guys with Sawstops (and other electronic controled tools) unplug them in severe weather? This is a curiosity question on my part....I'll continue to be safe rather than sorry.

So I am in the process of playing the game of changing internet provider for a lower rate.  

I am dropping ATT 2wire for Comcast (Xfinity) cable system.  The cable is for internet only.  Our tv is off-air and by internet.  

In anticipation of the change several years ago I buried a cable wire from the pole, but it was never connected.  Cable was connected this week.  The wire connects to a 4-way splitter in the crawl space.  The cable modem will not program from any of the 4 terminations in the house.  

The pole wire is available outside at the house.  The modem does initiate when connected to the pole wire at the house.  

I have replaced connectors that may have been suspect.  I have made coax connections for years without issues.  

My question:  has the 4-legs from the splitter so attenuated the signal that the modem cannot initialize?  (If 4-legs would attenuate the signal, then I would expect 4-leg splitters would not be marketed)

Is the cable signal too weak?  What strength of signal should I expect?  How is the signal strength measured?  Would my internet signal be stronger if I also purchased cable tv?  (would they do that?)

Suggestions welcome.

tom

I have an electric paint sprayer. I have always thought when you clean these, you need to add the solvent of the paint you used into the can, and clean the spraygun spraying that solvent out from the can. But when I read the manual of my machine, it says after every use, spray water out from the can, and clean with the included tools (needle, brush). 

So what is the proper method then? Use only water? That sounds strange for me when paints with strong type of solvents having been used.

A few very worthy tools that are now for sale. First, I don’t have paypal or any other EFT gizmos, so payment in US Postal money order please; if I know you from the forum then checks are ok; all prices are plus shipping and I’ll combine to get you the best rate. First Private Message with an unequivocal “I’ll take it” gets priority in line and I’ll respond to every PM promptly. Please put your name and shipping address in the PM so I can print shipping labels, this avoids a lot of back and forth. Many pics in this link to a Flickr album;. Flaws, if any, are noted and pointed out as apologies and prices asked reflect those apologies, however all tools are in working condition after sharpening (as needed).  Link to flickr album:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/9433588@N0...0310735811

We have three block planes, left to right:
A #60 1/2 low angle block plane; truly vintage, lost japanning in places but it functions like it should; apology is chip on ramp, see last closeup pic, that does not affect use and that's reflected in the pricing. Good value for someone.



Center is a very crisp #9 1/4, 95%+ original japanning, excellent condition.



On right is a very interesting 9 1/2; it is a very early model with the patent date on the top of the lever cap, late 1890s according to Patrick on his Blood and Gore website (http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm#num9.5) and has "Stanley" on the lateral lever as well. Anyway, it all works as it should and I took the time to reset the bevel and sharpen it, so its ready for wood.
As far as pricing, take your pick for $35 plus shipping, take 'em all for an even $100 plus shipping.

Next up is a #6, corregated "short jointer", Type 9 (1907) with perhaps 70% japanning. Tote horn repair (by me) and its solid, low knob is solid; metal has no cracks, etc., sole has evidence of rust (see closeup pic) so that's an apology and reflected in price. All original and correct for type. $65 plus shipping.  A bargain.  SOLD


Last up is a #7, Type 5 (1888), 85%+ japanning and corregated as well. This one is "barn fresh" (I took it off a beam in a barn at an estate sale) complete with patina, so a little cleanup will be required, wood very nice, Tote has crack repair which is solid and knob is solid as well. All original and correct for type. Yours for $100 plus shipping. SOLD



Again, note the terms in the first paragraph above, and please include your full name and address in your Personal Messages.
Thanks for looking.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/zip/d/s...45981.html

Shipsmith, all parts.

Can be restored or use the parts for your existing Shopsmith.

One owner, lightly used Jet 12 in disc sander with open stand, and dust collection filter.   1 hp, 1720 rpm.  Miter gauge. Runs very smoothly. Comes with a few sheets of sandpaper.  In the picture, filter is not attached-but bolts on easily with 4 bolts.  Filter is in good condition. Owners manual. Only interested in local pickup at this time in Marion, TX-just outside of San Antonio.  $375

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precision setup tools for tablesaw - designed & made by John Economaki before he retired, made in USA about 2012.
TM-1 tenon maker, KM-1 kerf maker - sold for about $59.95 each.  sell the pair for $30 + sh

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