And spent a whopping $13.25, to boot...
   
$1 Chisel 1-3/4" width....Millers Falls "Buck Rogers No. 308 ( 3/8" chuck) $1....Stanley Handyman No. H1220 $1....both drills have drill points inside the handles

Next?
   
$5 for a canvas roll of brace bits...and...
   
Lufkin No. 456, 6" stainless steel caliper..$1

There was also a cloth roll to store chisels in...just the roll...$0.25..
Then there was this block plane...the oem cap was broken, but...a loose INTACT cap iron was in the tray with it..Paid $3 total..
   
Sargent No. 306 Adjustable mouth block plane...

Wasn't too bad a day, even IF half the vendors weren't even open on Friday....

So...anyone want to see what I passed on?

Redoing some high quality '60's oak furniture and need to id the finish.

So far I've found acetone will soften it and mineral spirts won't.  

What other tests can I make to get a good idea of what it is?

And will polyurethane stick to it? (I'll probably be sanding it first, but possibly not in some areas)+

{backstory: LOML decided the bunk beds of the suite needed to be stored in unheated barn.  Not one of her best ideas.  Sanding, etc to get them back into grandkid condition.}

Has anyone dealt with Beaver Industrial Supply? Do the have a showroom and keep big items in stockade? I have about decided on a saw stop and they are a dealer. I can drive 2 hours to St Louis and pick one up or I can go 3 hours to Springfield and get one from Grizzly. Really not wanting to pay 300 plus shipping when we can make a little family road trip out of it. Grizzlies website shows the saws in stock I can't tell from Beaver Industrial and didn't want to call and bother them if somebody else had the answer online. Thanks

From E.C. Stearns....
   
(was kind of hard to "pose" with the 10" Brace drill attached)
The "Business End"
   
Adjust from 1/4" to 1-1/4"....
   
Depth stop even has a ruler-like scale to set the length on a tenon..

Not sure who replaced the shank at the top...they did a real good job...more for a power drill, now, but seems to work in my Brace drills..
Yard sale find a few years ago...$1

To carry around a few of these..
   
Used this one to lay things out on the bottom of the carrier..
   
The Infamous "Full Sized Drawing"  

Then a couple ends were milled...
   
Then a center divider laid out
   
So I could also lay out the 2 dividers...
   
The decide how to attach this...
   
To the ends..and attach the center divider, too..
   
Finger joints?  

That was about it for a 1 hour of shop time last night...try again later, today?
Stay tuned..

I have been asked to repurpose a butcher block countertop.
I assume it is finished with some type of oil, and is I good shape. It will be installed on a roller around island, to be used in a laundry room, to fold clothes and such. It will be cut to length, so the ends will be raw wood.
I would think an oil finish and l assume an oil finish and freshly laundered clothes is not ideal.
I am thinking a coat of clear shellac, and several coats of water based poly is the right way to go.

Any ideas? Any thoughts?

I finished building Clayton Boyer's Harmonic Oscillator clock today.  My friend built the Sapele base, and I made the clock works, oscillator and weights.  Lots of woods in this project.  The dial ring is paduak with ebony number inlays, the clook wheels are maple and paduak from shop made plywood, and the clock frame is mahogany.  The CNC makes fabricating the wheels and associated parts a lot easier, but there is still a lot of handwork and metal work involved so it feels very much like most other woodworking related projects, with the same satisfaction when it's finally done and turned out like you had hoped.  An added bonus with a clock is that you get to watch it run, not just sit there looking pretty.  






John

Ran across a video showing a 110v shaker designed to vibrate a concrete forming table 

$40-80 and this thing shakes the tarnation and the fine dust out of my pleated dust filter.


Just got one set up tonight and already ordered another for my other DC. 

https://www.amazon.com/Hsing-Concrete-Vi...B08BLXDQDW

This is the 30w version, I have a 90w version, will see if the 30w version is as good.

I have the new Bosch GCM12SD compound sliding miter saw and it has the “click” adapter on the dust collection port and I am looking to add well hook up my new dust stopper to it but I cannot find a good adapter to adapt or go into the click adapter part of my bosch miter saw.  Wanted to see what y’all have done for this or what ideas you have.

Thanks in advance!

1-3/4" thick.  White oak.  60" diameter round top.

Just realized that it's cupped about 1/4" across its span.  

It never sat on a surface that sealed one side from air/humidity movement and it was flat when it came out of the clamps about three weeks ago. 

I've tried soaking the concave side with water in hopes of flattening it, but only lost about 1/8" of the cup.

My options, as I see it now, are to attack the outer high points on one side and the high center on the other with a hand plane or a belt sander. 

Or to take it to a local shop that has a CNC to flatten it.

What would you do?  Ripping and regluing isn't an option.