This project was a commission from a near by business man that wanted a rustic farm house style table for his home.  The table is 9' long x 45" wide as per the customers request.  It is constructed of 150+ year old Dairy Barn Lumber from Burlington, WI.  This is about as big a project as I can build in my Basement Wood shop!  

Completed this Pulpit and Communion Table build not too long ago.  Here is a photo of it in place.

 This was a big but fun build. 

I'm looking for some interlocking floor tiles that can be placed on concrete slab to absorb some shock and make more comfortable when standing at the lathe, bench, etc. See some are foam, some are rubber, etc., and trying to figure out which will hold up and work. Machines won’t be placed on them and appreciate any suggestions or thoughts.

Thanks,
John

I will be making a 1½" x 11" x 5' bartop made of Western Red Cedar to go on my BBQ shelter. Because of mobility issues, I had the help of seven friends and relatives, and want to route their names in this bartop. The void in the letters will be filled with a resin. To preserve it's color I want to stain it.  My take is to cut and fill the letters, then some sort of primer, then a couple of coats some finish. This is all new to me so I am open to any advice.
Bill

I've been using WATCO Danish Oil for probably 40 years, and even sopping it on until it wouldn't absorb anymore I've never had it not 'dry' overnight.  And many (many) times over the years I've top coated it with lacquer the next day with no resulting issues.  So I was a bit surprised this morning when the maple 'butcher block' is still 'seeping'... and I didn't really lay in on heavy.   I expect I've been incredibly lucky over the years.  

I have known for a long time that factories in china (and here to if we have any left…) would be happy to sell most any of their products and will happily put anyone’s brand name on it. 

I’ve always hated to see trusted brands do this, I understand why they do, but I still hate to see it. 

This morning I opened an advertisement from tractor supply with a Porter Cable branded shop vac. On closer inspection it’s pretty much identical to the Bauer sold at Harbor Freight.  The good news, is that it’s also comparable pricing at $50 rather than trying to sell it for twice the price hoping the brand will fool people into thinking they are getting a better product.

I’m also aware that just because two items look same on the surface they may not have same specs on motors, gears, fans etc. 

At the $50 price point on this vacuum, I’m willing to bet it’s either same or worse specs than the Bauer. 

Duke

Just wondering - if you have had a new lawn (from dirt) hydroseeded - how thick was the mulch that was put down with the seed and fertilizer?

Hey all, formerly very active member crawling back out of the dust and cobwebs to hopefully be around a bit more. We've had some crazy life stuff including adding a kid to our lives, my spouse getting very sick but making it through, moving houses to one with no good shop area, changing jobs 2-3 times... it's been a crazy 6 years not even counting this whole pandemic thing thrown in there for good measure.

My tools have all been mothballed all this time, but if all goes to plan I'm about to join some friends in a shared studio space where I'll get a small corner to call my own and set back up a woodworking space. They do other types of arts (a jeweler and a general crafter), so I'll need to be very good about dust management; a strong point in the pro column for going mostly hand tools.
It'll be maybe 150-200 sq ft of dedicated space out of a 600 sq ft studio so not a ton to work with given needing lumber storage in there too, but nice tall 11' ceilings, so I can go vertical for storage. I'm thinking it should be plenty to setup a small hybrid space to do some furniture building and keep me sane. Maybe I can finally finish that Maloof style rocker that's in pieces in my shed too...


So if you were doing a small hybrid shop setup prioritizing lower dust and noise levels, what would be your required larger tailed tools? 
Assumptions:

• My hand tool collection is ample, and I know how to use a jointer plane.
  
• Not counting things that can go in drawers like routers or orbital sanders.
  
• Dust collection/vacuums are a given and will be added on as needed.
  
• Buying mostly S2S/S3S wood, or planing rough wood down in my yard/driveway (or having someone else do it locally) before taking to the studio.
  

• Workbench. Duh.
  
• Bandsaw (I have a Rikon 14" Deluxe)
  
• Miter Saw or RAS
  
• Drill Press
  
• Track Saw + dust extractor
  

• Lathe (possibly up to key? depends on projects. Good dust collection will be a PITA.)
  
• Oscillating spindle/belt sander
  
• Scroll Saw
  
• Jointer
  
• Planer
  
• Table Saw (though maybe on wheels with a plywood topper and use it as a multi-function table in the middle of the space?)
  

Hello once again everyone This will be my next canvas. Made from a glued up Maple blank, this will be another Kokopelli theme project. There will be piercing, carving and coloring, this is just the  8" x 8" hollowed blank with 1/4" wall. The base section will be cut away after all the Piercing & carving work is complete.

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I need to refinish the cabinets in my kitchen and am going to use polyurethane as the protective coat.  My question: is it better to spray polyurethane with an airless sprayer, a HVLP system or a LVLP spray gun?
Thanks.