not hand-tools but hand drawn plans. 

Found this interesting post over on reddit (sorry mods I don't know if cross posting is frowned upon?)

https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/com...net_maker/

I have a driveway that is 10" x 85" long.  I need the old drive removed and new one installed.  I live in Columbus, Ohio.  Trying to figure out a sq/ft cost.  Got the first estimate and it was for $15/ft.  What do you think?

Lonnie

I want to make something like this but what would be the best way to attach the hatchet to the block of wood?

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Wife uses the crockpot two or three times a week.  After 30 years of struggling with the leftover fatty juices in the slow cooker bag (and not wanting to put them down the drain), it occurred to me that a few cups of sawdust makes that task way much easier.  Doh!

How many hours should I expect to get out of my Mikita CNC Router? What would be the first sign its failing?  thanks

I want to build a thicknessing jig for a hand plane to make thin tapered shims out of hard maple.  These would go into the neck joint of a bass or cello to adjust the neck angle.  The widest piece needed for a bass is roughly 2 5/8"  or 67mm.  I'd like to make the shims a little wider so that they can be adjusted for fit. 
The widest plane I have is a 4 1/2 or 60mm.  I have a scraper plane that is 2 3/4 or 70mm, but I don't think this would be a good tool for thicknessing -- it's more a finishing tool, not a stock removal tool

Any ideas?  I want to ask before I start searching vendor websites -- who knows what I'll end up buying instead of what I need.

I could build a jig for a power sander, but I try to avoid creating dust as much as possible.  This would be a last resort.  (half of my workshop consists of metal working machines with finely tuned oiled ways and I try to zero out as much airborne dust as I can.  The best way to do that is not create it in the first place)

Ok I hope this question is OK in this forum. Need to find a better lubricant for a few power tools such as the tablesaw gears and also my Performax drum sander height adjusting plate and screw handle bolt threads. It has to be a product that does not attract dust because both are huge dust emitters. I have used the white lithium dry grease but that has caked up over time and is a mess to clean. So my question what are all you woodworkers using on those gears and moving parts on your power woodworking tools?? Thanks in advance.

Since Pedder has asked me a few times what I would like in a saw I thought I would ask everyone here what they would like in a saw.

What do you expect the saw to do is one?  How would a saw have to make it easier?  If there were attachments to help what would they be?  What would be the best teeth be to do it accurately and smoothly be?  What kind of handle?

If you can think of other questions please state them and say what you think.

I'm fixing up a super-plain box that was in my pile of stuff.

I decided to add some legs, by removing some wood that was not legs.   I started with some 1/2" drilled holes, then worked on material removal.  My coping saw was a hassle, and I found a chisel went a lot faster.

Work so far:

   

   

   

My attic extends over my front porch. There was some type of foil faced paper that was installed between the attic over the conditioned space and the porch attic. It was partly falling down and old and brittle and I needed to get in there and so I took it down during some pre-move remodeling.
The ceiling above the conditioned living space is insulated (and more insulation to be installed soon, see my other thread about that). Porch roof isn’t insulated obviously and won’t be.
I haven’t yet found an answer to this in a web search so - do I need to out some type of barrier back up between the attic over the living space and the porch attic? What good does it do? The entire attic is vented and not conditioned.
Thanks