It's been a while since I've posted much, but this deal was too good to pass up and I thought I'd pass it along. I have a bunch of Starrett items that are either mint or excellent condition. Here's what's offered:
Starrett stuff
# 711GSSZ indicator
# 269A and 269B taper gouges
#S830FZ Hole gauges
#237 Depth gauge
#520-100 Steel tape
All of the above are like new and in the boxes. I also have a # 657 magnetic base and # 25-441 indicator gauge and some NOS wire and drill gauges.

There's also a Mitutoyo #505-628 12" caliper.

I would prefer to sell everything at once so I'm offering everything above for $600 plus shipping. If I can't move it as a package, I will sell individually. Cash, money order or PayPal friends and family are all fine. If you're interested, please PM me and I will happily send pics. Thanks!!

1 - MLCS Edge forming router bit set 1/2" shank, missing 1/2" flush trim bit.  $30 shipped CONUS.

   
   


2 - Woodline Chamfer bit set, 1/2" shank. 11.25°, 15°, 22.5°, 30° and 45°.  All but the 45 are still in protective covering. About $100 if bought new individually today. Sold


3- Freud, carbide tipped router bit door system, 1/2" shank, lightly used. Sold

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Crown 3/4” round side scraper—-crown 1/2” scraper—-sorby 1/4” parting tool—-craft supply 1/4” spindle gouge—- thin parting tool 1/16”——$20 to ship or plck up in magnolia,de—— pictures to be sent upon receiving your email address

I'm working on enhancing my current router table to incorporate a router lift
but I have an older Freud FT2000E Plunge router which does not adapt well
to any of the current router lifts.

One technical sales guy at Hvalley Tools recommended going with the Triton TRA001 dual mode
router that's both a plunge router and has a hand crank for router table use.  I have seen some some mixed
reviews though on the quality of Triton, one guy had problems with the base being flat.

Anyway, if you guys have any suggestions on the best config /set up for a router lift, I'm all ears.

I guess I could buy a new motor and lift if that's the best way to go, buy once cry once...

Thanks in advance

Been working on rehabbing such a thing....stripped it down to most of the parts...Jaws for the chuck..
   
It did have all it's springs, but...
   
Lacked the washer to push the jaws up into the cone of the shell....Tried this size washer...still issues..
   
A before and after on the right...the correct size on the left.
   
Might be too small of a bit, for this...even the Breast Drill has bigger bits..but, the same model chuck..
   
Makes sense, as Goodell Pratt made both of these...


Different bit...time for a test drive?
   
Since I do have a Goodell Pratt Brace drill, might as well use it.   Drill bit is just a normal 3/8" bit...

Wrap the chain around a post..
   
Pad at the top of the brace goes on my belly button..
   
So all I have to do is crank the wrist handle....
   
As the chain drill will push the drill bit for you....there is a rotation selector knob..
   
I had it set a "1" rotation....before the chain drill will advance into the post.....can be set up to 3 rotations...

This is the Goodell Pratt Co. No. 1080 Automatic Feed Chain Drill..seems to work as advertised....now just need to find a place to store this complicated machine,,,as I will leave the Brace Drill attached...

I have begun to make small jewelry boxes- using 1/4" - 3/8" material.   I find that my large table saw is a bit bulky for this detail work.   Although I have made several jigs to have accurate miter corners, I wish that I had a small bench saw to do this intricate work.   Something with a 6"-ish blade.    I tried using my hand plane with shooting boards, would rather a precise machine.   ANY IDEAS?   Anyone use a smaller TS for detail work?

I'm looking to upgrade the fence on my bandsaw. If you have one of the Laguna Driftmaster fences you would like to sell P.M. me.

Thanks

Hey,
Just took delivery of a PM1000.  I have owned a Jet Xacta and a Grizzly 1023RL.  I bought this Powermatic because I wanted a 115 volt this time around.  I have never owned a Powermatic. I am quite surprised with the fit and finish.  Don’t get me wrong it’s a nice saw.  I just expected it to be above a Jet or a Grizzly.  All Three are made in Taiwan.  If I had to rate the fit and finish I would go Jet, Grizzly, then Powermatic.  All great saws but not a huge difference in workmanship.  Just my opinion for what it’s worth.
Deck99

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/zip/d/s...79546.html

"Rusty vise. great condition but will need a little work to remove the rust if you like."

"King Nammu's Decanter"

This piece is made from Padauk, Canarywood and African Blackwood. After turning the hollow form, 32 flutes were hand carved into the main body of the piece. The pour spout is made from two pieces that were carved out all the way through so you can pour liquid from this vessel. The finished size of the piece is 8" x 12" x 18" The final finish on the wood is Deft sanding sealer.

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