I cut some pockets in some walnut  1/2" deep. I want to put a roundover on the inside edge. All of my round over bits when mounted on my table are too tall. The bearing and the screw hit the bottom of the pocket. Anyone else deal with this?

My experience with the McNaughton Center Saver coring tool

13in purpleheart 7 maple segment bowl with a padauk rim. I made this as a wedding gift for a coworker

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Hi, did some light framing recently and it reminded me of how bad framing lumber is and also I made it much worse.

The part that I screwed up on is that I bought the 2x6 lumber 6 months ago and I stickered and stacked it but they all warped a lot. I was able to pull the twist straight in my application using screws but I had to put washers or else the screws heads would just pull all the way through the wood. I do dry wood in a makeshift drying rack but of course it always milled before use.

I have always wondered about the moisture content issue with framing lumber. I would think that high MC is a problem for drywall or is it that when framing is done the time that it takes for rough plumbing and electrical allows it dry to quite a bit? I have a framing book and it says standard framing lumber should not be more than 19% MC. They do mention that kiln dried is dimensionally correct but once when I installed stair stringers I had to special order the dry lumber from a lumber yard that specialized in construction lumber so I assume its not commonly available except for 2x4's they sell at HD. Actually my stair book recommends LVL's for stair stringers but I assume it may difficult to buy just a few.

The other really irritating thing with framing lumber is that the width can vary +/- 1/4" which caused some of my drywall back side paper to crack when screwed down (I assume if it does not telegraph to the front side its OK). It would have almost been worthwhile to buy oversized lumber and mill it to 5.5" wide. I have also taken a chisel to framing when its proud of the sill plate but this is time consuming. 

I assume that with framing lumber it should be used as soon as possible.

My daughter has an alcove in their family foom that's about 12' long and 8' high. I'm building a cabinet/bookcase to fill the space. When completed, it will be have 12' long run of base cabinets. On top of the base cabinets on each side will be 3' wide bookcases, leaving about 6' open area in the center for the TV. I've installed the bsae cabinets and am now working on the bookcases. The cabinets, face frames, and countertops are painted white.

For a bit of contrast they want bookshelves to be maple and finished naturally. There will be three shelves in each bookcase, about 35" x 12" x 1 1/2". We've explored solid maple for the shelves, but due to waste and expense I'm leaning on laminating a couple sheets of 3/4" maple ply to get to the 1 1/2" thickness and band the front edge with solid material. I made a mock-up with some scrap and it looks fine. 

Question is on how to laminate the plywood. Contact cement, PVA, or some other kind of adhesive? I have access to a vacuum press that I could fit two or three shelves in at a time. Contact cement is my first choice as it is fairly quick and clamping isn't an issue. Thoughts?

Hello All,

I have the Jet 8" JJ-8CS which is a great jointer but it comes with a set of 3 knives. I have been reading about the helical head and one of the big advantages is not having to set each knife when you switch them out or sharpen them. Does anyone have the JJ-8CS and have they switched out the cutterhead? 

Secondly, which helical head would you recommend?

Thanks, Bill

30x60 ambrosia top.  Wipe on oil poly.  Flowyline Design steel legs ordered by the customer.  Aprons were drawn by the customer.  Paint is Palermo Rose by Benjamin Moore.  

I'm pleased.  My customer loves it.

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Any ideas on how to carefully trim homemade 1/4" hardwood edge trim, I've been struggling to get this right using a trim router, been gouging the edge trim since it's tippy. I clamped a 2x4 to the 3/4" plywood but still not working well.

I was trying to do it on an already assembled 8' cabinet box though.

Still working on the small bed side table for my wife.  I'm ready to make the drawers and fit them.  What is your normal procedure - glue the carcass and then fit the drawers -or- just clamp the carcass temporarily while you fit the drawers and then glue it all up?  I want to have smooth working well fit drawers.  If it was shop cabinets I wouldn't be so picky.

Lonnie

   

This was posted by Chris Goris on the NC Woodworker forum. I am sharing it here with his permission. In discussing it with him, he said that he found out that it had also happened to someone else that he knew, but they never mentioned it to each other until now.

Quote:OK, now that I have everyones attention let me tell you what happened. I clamped a glued up table top to my CNC to flatten it. I routinely do this after glue up because its no handling of a large top to flatten after gluing. I use a 2" diameter shell type cutter (or a fly cutter) to accomplish this. I create a simple pocketing tool path slightly larger than the workpiece and take very shallow passes until Ive flattened the entire surface. typically, running the same program stepping it deeper into the material until Ive cleaned up the entire face. all the while, I have a dust boot over the cutter head with dust collection running. The top I was running was running was made of aspen. Aspen is considered a soft wood and tends to get stringy when machining it. The dust boot is just a sheetmetal box that encloses a cavity over the cutter that has brushes that crush to the mating material to create a vacuum seal. Tonight, on my second pass, unbeknownst to me, the stringy material was building up under the dust boot around the cutter starting getting tangled in the brushes. As I was watching it run, I suddenly noticed a spark fly up the DC hose (4" corrugated semi clear hose) , then before I could react, the hose was glowing orange for about 12" up inside!!!!. I slammed the E stop button the CNC and was scrambling for my DC remote control, which was in my pocket to shut it off. The dust boot has a hinged door you can open to inspect and I opened it before the DC had even begun to spin down and saw flames being fanned by the DC air so I pulled the hose off the boot and it went out, but now I was unsure as to how much burning material could have possibly made it to my DC in the next room. Scrambling over there, disconnecting the barrel and the saw dust bag from below the filter, I did have some very hot saw dust in the main bin, but nothing on fire or glowing thankfully. This all transpired within probably 30 seconds time. It happens fast and scares you after the fact when you can imagine the what ifs. I do know I need more than one fire extinguisher, it was way at the other end of the shop 70 plus feet away through a gauntlet of tools, lumber and projects to get to. Stay safe my friends!