The Clamper......can come in handy as a ferrule for lathe tools, chisels, file handles, etc...Good for bushcrafting also..It may be possible to use a very hard exotic wood for the main body of the tool..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRc7ZDRcgrQ

Hello All,

I blew out the bottom tire on my bandsaw so I bought two new ones as they came together in the same package. The top tire seems to be ok. My guess is I should switch out both tires to avoid any issues but does only changing out the bottom tire make sense? The two new tires and the existing tires are both the same color (caution orange) and side by side, they appear to be be the same.

Thanks

Started on a Dutch tool chest with poplar, so far its going good.  My first time hand cutting dovetails.  I wound up with 1 pin that I'm not satisfied with, I will have to cut a sliver and plane it flush to hide the gap.  So far it's been a fun project using clout nails and hide glue to hold it all together. The Lie Nielsen no 48 is probably the neatest tool I own, hoping they get the 49s in this spring so I can do 1/2" T&G on furniture backs.  Stuck until I can get some appropriate screws in for the battens on the fall front and some strap hinges for this lid.  It will have to sit until next weekend.

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Over the years my collection of caving tools has grown. Now that I have too many in-tool roles I need to come up with a better system. My thoughts are something like two haves hinged like a book (so I can stand them up) with tools on each side. This way I can put the back in draws when not in use. Any other ideas?  I may also decide to do this with chisels.

I made a chess board for a grandson. I have turned the chess pieces out of maple and cherry. I put 4 coats of my go to mix on. [watco natural oil, denatured alcohol and shellac] I sealed with sanding sealer and  I sanded between each coat. The maple looks great but the cherry looks to me awful. All the pieces came out of the same piece of wood but the colors are all over the place. I don't feel like making another set. Do you know of suggestions short of paint for clearing these up.
By the way he's 9 and can kick me into next week on the game and a lot of other people also. Yea that was bragging!!!!

I am offering a somewhat rare Walker Turner Foot Feed assembly. This came off of a 15” model 1200 machine. All components are present and accounted for except the upper gear guard and its commonly available hardware. This would be easy to ship with the exception of the long rod – I don’t believe there is anything special about it and I would assume it could be procured locally.

I am completely in the dark regarding value – I couldn’t find any record of previous sales of this foot feed. As a result I am asking $425 but I am certainly o[pen to reasonable offers/discussion of price.

Please feel free to ask for additional information/pictures.

Thanks for looking
Rick


   

   

Hey,

We're moving soon to a new house (unfortunately, that doesn't mean my shop gets any bigger). The house has a second floor deck that's roughly 350 sq ft, and we'd like to use the space underneath for storage (bikes, lawn mower, etc.). Ideally, I'd really like to keep the space dry, which means adding some sort of waterproofing or way to redirect rain.

From what I can tell, the systems that are installed when the deck is built are the best approach, such as Trex RainEscape, ones by Dek Drain, or similar DIY versions using EPDM rubber hung between the joists. They protect the joists and don't get in the way below. But, short of pulling up the entire walking surface, it doesn't appear that I can install a system like this right now.

So what *good* options are available for an already-built deck? I've seen lots examples online of people installing some sort of corrugated plastic or fiberglass sheets on a slope from the bottoms of the joists to direct the water into a gutter. My two big concerns with that are 1) you lose headroom in a space that is already a little short on this house and 2) that might cause water to be trapped a little bit and not dry out as quickly after rains. I'm more concerned about #2, given that we live in a relatively humid area (outside DC), and I certainly don't want to encourage decay in the joists/framing.

Am I overthinking this? Should I just go with the corrugated sheets, or steer clear of them? Is it worth the effort of pulling up the walking surface to add waterproofing? Or is there another option out there, perhaps that can be fit between joists from underneath?

My guess is that the deck has another 5-10 years of life to it. Whenever we redo it, I'll probably add waterproofing on the top side. But I need a decent solution for now.

Thanks,
Tyler

Sold & shipped.
My neighbor has a
https://jessem.com/products/dowelling-ji...it-08350mk
in brand new, excellent condition.
He might have used it once or twice.
He’s asking $115 for it, mailed anywhere CONUS.
This retails for about $240.
First I’ll take it post gets first dibs.

I have a moisture issue that I can not figure out.

Some background first - 

The slab was poured in July of 2022.
The all metal building in September of 2022.
The foam was sprayed in October of 2022.

Once the overhead door was up, I used propane heaters to heat the space.
I stripped the building out with 2x4's and hung drywall in December of 2022 and January of 2023.

In February of 2023 once the electrical was installed, I switch to a 220 electric space heat with the propane as supplemental heat.
I started running a dehumidifier and was emptying it twice a day.  I know the propane put a lot of moisture into the air but with emptying the bucket twice a day, I was taking out about 1 3/4 gallons a day!  I bought a hygrometer when I started to use the dehumidifier and the relative humidity was almost 85%!
  It never did rain!  Whew.

Using the dehumidifier brought that number down to around 70%.  I wasn't really worried because I assumed that going through the summer and using the air conditioner would bring that number down further and it did to a little under 60%.  Not bad.

I quit using the dehumidifier and now into this heating cycle and the number went back to 70%!
So I started it back up and empty it about 1 1/2 times a day.  The number is back down to 60% but no lower.
One day I was gone and the RH went back up 2%!

WHERE IS THE MOISTURE COMING FROM???

The concrete has been poured almost 16 months so I would think that it is fully cured and no moisture coming from it.
The building is on a slope lot so the slab has approximately 2 1/2' of pea gravel under one end and 1' under the other end.
The gravel and the fact that the concrete is not wet tells me that no water is coming through the concrete.
For the framing lumber, I used kiln dried pine and once again, I would think any moisture in that component is gone.
I assume that the foam might have a water component but after well over a year and using the AC and dehumidifier, wouldn't that moisture have off gassed?
I do not store any quantity of lumber in the shop - green or otherwise.
I do use water based finish but I haven't sprayed anything in quite a while and even then I exhaust the over spray outside.

I found an absolute humidity calculator online and it had 9 pounds of water in the shop volume with and RH of 60% and a temp of 62F.  That surely can't be right since I am removing close to that much every day.  I must have made a mistake.

I have racked my brain and tried to think of every contingency and I have got nothing.
I have asked friends family and once again nothing.

What does the Woodnet brain trust say???

A very interesting video...Arlin's post on boat building led me to this youtube site...you may enjoy it...I love his accent..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYKUBzTJxtA