After this, do they have even a slight bit of credibility left?  I think not.

https://popularwoodworking.com/review/jack-plane/

I have a Delta 28-216 14" bandsaw. I would like to replace the stock guides. What is a good after market guide? Will be mainly used to cut close to a pattern line, no resawing.

drinking cups?


I have used casting epoxy for vases to waterproof them but nothing says NO about coating inside of a cup with it.

I thought I would post an update to this thread (op message below the update).
I took apart the motor as best as I know how and gave it a good cleaning with compressed air. It was caked with dust at the butt end (whatever opposite from the shaft would be).
In the process I errantly attempted to remove the core in the wrong direction. 
I think that process could have inadvertently adjusted a bearing at the shaft ever so slightly, but I'm not sure. I realized my error and removed the core in the correct direction. Removing the end caps and the core is as far as I went with disassembly. I did not do anything with the centrifugal switch other than blow it off with compressed air.
I continued to clean everything out with compressed air - wasn't nearly as bad in the rest of the body as it was at the one end.
I applied some grease around the bearing at the butt end and there's a large washer in there too that seems to be just a spacer against that bearing. I gave that a little grease as well.
I looked over everything and I couldn't find any signs of uneven wear or anything that looked like excessive wear anywhere.
I put it back together and fired it up. No more squeak. Seemed to be running smooth and true, so I mounted the motor to the cyclone and it's running fine with no squeak.

Hopefully that's all it needed.

My new shop is a large pole barn and the cyclone is adjacent to, but out of the way of the woodshop area. Someday I will have a finished wall separating the wood shop from the rest of the barn and the cyclone completely with air return to the shop, so my new shop shouldn't expose the motor to nearly as much dust as did my old one.




OP follows -
This is a 5hp Leeson motor that is used to turn the 14” material movement impeller on my cyclone dust collector.
It made this squeaking noise for years prior to being put in storage for three years. I never heard the squeak when starting up or running, but did while it slowed down after being turned off. It seemed to run just fine otherwise.
I’m finally back into a workshop again after three years and now getting this cyclone setup, but I want to (finally) address the cause of this squeak before hoisting this thing on top of the cyclone.
Looking for ideas on potential causes and fixes before I start taking it apart.
Link to video of squeaking motor below.
Thanks

http://youtu.be/9JA8QxQ3V7c?si=EIhlXoyqbq72Tj8N

I have an old 10" dovetail saw, 15tpi, with a steel back and the only markings is W. Germany stamped on the spine.  The saw is in pretty decent condition, no deep rust or pitting although the teeth definitely need reshaping/sharpening.

Anyony know anything about these saws?  It certainly doesn't look to be a quality saw, if nothing else a good saw to learn refiling on.

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I recently picked up a Powermatic 24” scroll saw so these machines are now surplus and need to go.

The first one is Type 1 with a Dewalt Stand. Not an expert but seems to run fine to me. All parts are present and accounted for. I went through this machine following the 4 part YouTube series – I did replace a few bearings/sleeves and the dog bone pivot.

The second saw is a Type 2 – again seems to run but probably needs a bit of a tune up. No stand. I initially bought this as a potential parts machine but when I got it home it ran well enough that I figured it would make a good spare. The table locking knob is broke and needs to replaced. Nothing has been done to this ,machine except minor light cleaning.

I am anxious to move these along – need the space before the new machine arrives. I am looking to get $325 for the type 1 with the stand. Because the Type 2 seems to be a little less desirable and nothing has been done to it I am asking $200 for it.

Now the deal – buy them both for $425 and I’ll through in a box of spare parts – some new some used – at no charge. As always – I will entertain reasonable offers. I can also help with delivery in the NC, SC, southern VA areas.

Get them now before they get snapped up!

Rick

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

I purchased my home about 2 years ago.  It had termites (or some bug infestation) at some time in the past, but no evidence of anything recently.  The prior owner used a termite monitoring company that set green bait traps around the house and checked them once a year for evidence of termites.  The cost is about $400 a year, and they check the traps once a year.  However, if there are termites, they only pay for remediation -- not to repair any other damage caused by the termites.  I asked what the usual remediation cost was, and the guy said $1,000 to $2000.  I pointed out that it didn't make much sense to pay $400 a year to insure against a $1-2,000 risk, unless there was a high risk of getting termites again.  I asked whether I was at a heightened risk for getting termites because the house had them in the past.  he said not really.  None of my neighbors have this monitoring system.

Is this just a rip off?  I'm I missing something?  I can see the argument that having the monitoring would identify a termite problem quickly, and hopefully before they had time to do much damage.  But it seems very expense for what it is.

Thoughts?

Would you use 4 year old TB ll?
Think I'm gonna trash can it.

Ed

Ends well tho.

SWMBO was cleaning the electric cooktop and I guess she got a little too liberal with the cleaner: buzz..POP. Breaker tripped.

Flipped the breaker and it tripped immediately.

I took the whole cooktop apart looking for scorched/fused/melted bits..and couldn't find any. Put a multimeter on all the simmerstats and the fan switch..they all tested good as did the elements.

After letting the cooktop sit apart for several days to 'dry out', reassembled it and it's all working as expected. That's a first for me: I figured shorting 15A @ 240V would damage something for sure (I'm sure it arced internal contacts; I just can't identify the affected switch by sight, smell or multimeter).

Luckily it's a relatively primitive affair: no integrated circuits, just four simmerstats, a fan switch and an indicator light. If it had ICs, I bet it'd be toast..and nobody is going to fix a control board from 1998.

-Mark