Does anyone know where to get washing machine hoses with solid brass fittings ? I would also prefer NO stainless steel braiding on the hose.

Hello once again I was able to put the finishing touches on my first piece for 2024. I have been showing progress on this piece as I made it. Made from Maple first turned hollow on the lathe, it finished at 7" x 7".  Then the pattern was hand drawn and hand carved,  21 Kokopelli's in all. Some pyrography was added for shading then alcohol inks were added for coloring the hand carved leather straps, the final finish is satin lacquer.

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Any recommendation on lower cost alternative to Blum?  I have only used Blum in the past and have been happy with them, but looking for same/similar functionality at a lower price point and similar quality.  Any recommendation would be appreciated.  Thank you!

I'm listing a brand new, in box Milwaukee jig saw. Model 2737-20. This is the M18 platform - TOOL ONLY.

I got it in a bundle and I don't think I'll ever use it.

Retail seems to be pretty steady at $200. How's $145 sound? Buyer pays shipping; I ship by PirateShip so it should be pretty reasonable. --I can do Venmo or PP.

   
   

I'm sure I've shown this before, but I had to cut tapers on some legs today, so I decided to take some photos and show you the simple jig I use.  I make these jigs for the task at hand. I don't store them.  They take 5 minutes to make from whatever scrap I have.  The jig I made today was to cut tapers on 28" long legs, prior to turning.  The jig is nothing more than a piece of plywood with a rear stop and a shim that's as wide as the taper you need to cut.  These legs taper from 2.4" wide to 1.1", so the shim is 0.65" wide.  

d 

Here you can see the shim:



When you cut the taper towards the rear of the jig, the blade pushes it against the jig.  Also, the workpiece rides on the saw table, so you don't need hold down clamps, etc. 

OK, this arrange will get you tapers on adjacent faces, but if you want to taper all four faces you need to add a new shim to make up for the waste cut away on the first two.  You could change the first shim, but I just add an additional one beside the first.  



Here it is installed:



Just push it through again to taper the two remaining two faces.



And that's it:



I set the fence to leave extra material for turning, but the 5/8" shim still gives the correct angle.  If I were making straight tapered legs, I would move the fence closer to the blade leaving only maybe 1/32" to clean up by hand.  

John

Joe 1086's thread about making a wall/shelves/TV space for his daughter prompted a thought I've had for some time. I was recently in a Best Buy and 85" TVs seem pretty common and reasonably affordable these days. I build an entertainment center in the late '90s for a 32" CRT tv. Yeah, sucker weighed close to 200 lbs. or more as I recall. Currently it houses a 46" Sony which is quite modest by today's standards. The TV sits on top of a 50 inch base with drawers and shelves with towers in either side. The towers are about 6" deeper than the base. Problem with this design is if I wanted to go with a TV larger than about 50", I couldn't. I could move the base out so it's in front of the towers that contain books and audio video devices. A larger TV would obstruct both towers. Anybody have a thought beyond redesigning/rebuilding at least the center portion?

There was 8"+ snow forcasted for Thursday night and my JD27 has an issue with chain jumping the sprockets. Tried realigning and swapping a few bearings and 2hr.s later it still doesn't work. One of the guys said there are always some on Marketplace. He scheduled to pick up an Ariens 8/24 and a Craftsman 9/28 "that ran last year" at 4:30.. both of them for $40. The Ariens got quick jet cleaning but the actual problem was the teeny tiny vent on the carb was blocked. The Craftsman's throttle linkage needed some PB Blaster; it was stuck on full. The mig was all set up so the skids got some 1/4" x 1" added to them. 

I wouldn't normally have stressed about 8", but with the warm weather we were having there's no frost. The new skid steer bucket would tear up the gravel driveways but I could still use it for the snow banks at the road...and I now have two working snowblowers!

We got about an inch of powder.

Gonna make my daughter a make up table.  It will have two drawers on each side of the table and one in the middle (total 5 drawers).  I do drawers using my Leigh D4R Pro jig - - and I dread when I have to use the thing.  It does do repeatable drawers, but setting it up is almost beyond my patience level.  I have ruled out hand-cut dovetails just because it takes me so long to do one drawer.  My question is: does/has anyone used the various matching router bits to do drawer joints?  Do they have the same strength and longevity of dovetail joints?  Good idea?  Bad idea?  Any comments would be appreciated so thank you in advance.

I was active here for a long time but life happens and I just haven’t had time to post for a few years. Old timers here probably remember me but I see a lot of unfamiliar names. I have been at this awhile so hopefully I will be able to share and help out some of you guys starting out. I’ll post some pictures of some of my work and see if I have some of my old step by step builds saved somewhere I can post. I build traditional Early American furniture but have unique ways to do a lot of the traditional joinery. Some things have to be done by hand but I have found that with some things there are faster more efficient ways to get the job done. At any rate, hopefully you guys will see me around more in the future.

For me it was 2009 or 2010 but pretty sure I started in 2009 when Ray shown me how to make a pen correctly.  I started off with bench chisels to make pens since I did not have any tools yet.