I had this video playing in the background recently, and I caught some interesting viewpoints on the merits of Hide Glue.

I won't make you watch the whole thing about a Violin repair.  This fellow's on-topic points are basically:
  - Titebond Original wood glue is consistently able to be loosened as needed for service.
  - He's never had a failure with Titebond Original, but he's seen some failures with Hide glue.
  - Sometimes Hide glue isn't so loosen-able as touted.  He thinks that various dead hides have various chemistries.


https://youtu.be/zzHCXV1rbN0?si=5Yu-sTGpKpOj0_qL


It's a refreshing viewpoint.  For a few years I was finding Titebond Liquid Hide glue at Ace Hardware, but not lately.  So I'm more back to Titebond PVA glues.

Miscellaneous wood and molding. Must take all. U-Haul. Thank you

I have a bedrock 608 flat bottom plane for sale. I do not have a clue as to what type it is nor do I care. The sides have been precision ground square to the bottom. The bottom has been precision ground flat with in .0015. It was stripped and repainted and the knob and tote are Rosewood. There are no cracks or repaired brakes in either. However it appears to have a little piece sliced out of the tote. The lever cap says Bedrock. The first picture shows the plane completely disassembled so you know it all works. You can see where the small piece in the tote appears to be missing. The blade have been precision ground and no lapping the top is required.

Asking $$300 shipped, insurance is extra. Every one likes pictures.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

I just picked up an old Bridgewood cabinet saw and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find a manual or any info. Google searching doesn't bring up that much and there's basically no pictures. This one has a 3HP 220v motor and I believe it is right tilt. It also has a vega fence. So far, with a very quick inspection, the motor moves about 1/4"" on a large shaft, in the direction of loosening or tightening the belts. There are two allen head hex screws that look like they might secure it better but I don't want to mess with anything yet.
Any info is appreciated.

                    home shop orig owner bought in 2007 
scoring blade panel saw,1 1/4 spindle shaper, 14 inch jointer/planer 
can be demonstrated under power in millington nj 07946
12,500.00
im me for more info

I'm looking for some advice guys. I am building a gaming table. Basically a large coffee table with a sunken 'vault' in the middle of it, but it will also have a solid top that can be lifted off. The top is solid cherry 1" thick cut in 3 sections. Each section is about 20"x36". The top of course is there so the table can be used in a conventional way when not actually gaming.
My issue is that these top sections will literally just set on the table and not be fastened in any way. 
So to break the question down to it's simplest form; If left to it's own devices, is a 20"x36" x1" solid cherry panel likely to warp? The grain runs in the long direction. I know it will move (expand/contract) but will it twist? It goes against my grain - if you'll excuse the pun- but I'm thinking of using C channel inset into the bottom side to help hold it flat. I've built many tables and never had an issue, but I've never built one where the top just free floats. These tops are already glued up and have been setting in my shop for a couple of weeks (no finish) and so far they are still flat, but to further my angst, the finished project will be moving from Michigan to Georgia.

I mentioned a couple of months ago that I was going to build this table:



It's 42" diameter and pulls apart for the addition of 3, 12" extension leaves.  I have never built and extension table, so that made it sound interesting.  The leg design and the fake dovetails in the top were appealing to me, too.  The original tables mostly used walnut and oak.  In discussing it with my customer, we decided on mahogany and maple.  It's hard to imagine that this pile of wood and plywood cost over $1000 but it did.  



The legs start out with a 2.5" square.  



I laid out the mortises and cut them on my Horizontal Router Mortiser:





The lower leg is a round taper.  I removed some of the waste using a simple tapering jig on my TS:





I have a lathe and I can turn a little, but I knew I'd never be able to make perfectly straight tapers on all four legs, so I thought about how to do it on my CNC.  I built a crude 4th axis to rotate the leg while the CNC followed the taper pattern I programmed it to do.  



I don't have enough Z height to machine from the top, which would have given a much better finish, but the tapers it cut cleaned up beautifully with sandpaper on a wood block.



There is an interesting transition from the round taper to the square top section; the outside corner is radiused to match the taper.  I did this with a handplane and sandpaper.





I cut the veneer for the top with my Grizzly bandsaw, to which I added a tall fence and roller featherboard system.  Those assure the wood is pressed tightly to the fence and keep my hands away from the blade.  It makes sawing veneer a simple operation.  



even down to the last cut:





Then to the drum sander:



and they are ready to use:



More to follow.

John

I’ve seen several videos on YouTube about adding an oil cooler to the air line bringing air temp down from around 300F coming out of compressor pump down to sub 100F after the cooler.

Most of the coolers like the derale 15300 have 8AN or 10AN connections which are 1/2” tube size.
That’s fine for most compressors pumps but I have an old harbor freight V pump on top of a Quincy tank that has a 3/4” outlet

I’d rather not restrict the flow from the pump to the tank with 1/2” I’d rather go with one that has 12AN connection but those get into racing sizes which means lots of dollar signs.

Anybody have any suggestions on a radiator type cooler that can handle the pressure and has 3/4 connections?

Thanks
Duke

I decided that this summer I want to get my #8 into serviceable condition. As found I have a good- body, frog, and front knob. I have a serviceable lever cap and chip breaker, not original to this plane- and probably incorrect type. I will need to buy a blade and buy or make a rear tote. Never made a tote but I think I could do it if it came to that. The plane does have a partial rear tote so possibly could be repaired. My main question is about the blade. I think I like the idea of buying a hock blade/ chip breaker set for this plane. Best I can tell, these go for ~$90 for the set. Also, best I can tell a vintage blade is going to run approx. same cost as a Hock replacement. I'm fairly confident I can find a donor tote, steal one off of one of my collection, or just buy one on-line. Obviously I'm not worried about having a type correct collectable plane, I just want to have a solid user. And if I'm being honest it will probably not see that much use- but I don't have a working #8 and I want one. Questions-

- Are there any sources for Hock that are cheaper/ better than another? I'll probably just go with Lee Valley unless I'm missing something.
- Is my math more or less correct, that a Stanley blade for #8 would go for around $40-$50 for anything worth having on a plane.
- Is there another new blade manufacturer that I should be looking at? I've used Hock blades in other planes so I'm already a fan/ sold on the idea but maybe for a big #8 it might be different?
- Is it worth it to get the Hock chip breaker if I already have a Stanley? Like I said, I've used Hock blades but never bought the Hock chip breaker so maybe the premium on the chip breaker on a #8 is not worth it??

titanxt's Moisture Meter post reminds me of a question.  I turn several bowls a year.  First, I turn the green piece to a 1" thickness, seal it and store it upside-down.  Months later, when I check for MC, the inside is almost always dryer than the outside.  Thus the question...why?  The difference, generally is greater than 4%.  I have the General pin meter.  

I'm just curious.  The answer will not change my routine, most likely.