Last time I was here, I was asking for some help with what I called the bubble leg desk. That project actually turned out great and the customer is very happy.
This time, my sister-in-law is asking that I build her and my brother a new dining table. This is sort of what she wants.
Top will be 80" x 45" out of oak, preferably white.
The top is easy enough, just the size and weight make it challenging to move around.
For the base, I am thinking along the lines of building plywood boxes approximately 8" wide x 28 depth. Adding support pieces in the top to attach cross members that would fit into notches. The cross members will connect the two bases and provide for attaching the top.
For finishing the bases, I think that applying a black dye, stain, or even flat back paint first to the boxes, then applying pre-finished wood strips.
I am interested in ideas on constructing the base, and how you would finish it.
When laying out paneling in this style along one wall, it's easy to figure out proper spacing so you have even panel widths across the entire wall.
LOML wants this look around the perimeter of the powder room - all four walls. One wall has a door, so we've really got 3 different wall lengths to consider.
Do you treat each wall as its own thing, evenly sub-dividing the space, meaning the "panel widths" may vary on adjacent walls by an inch or two?
Or, do you pretend you laid out the entire perimeter as one wall, find the spacing and lay out the vertical boards so that all "panels" are the same width on all 4 walls, but that means that in some corners, there may be no vertical trim board at all if the "panel" actually spans/wraps the corner?
As I lamented downstairs, my shop had an extra visitor or two, and one thing they took was my set of brad-tipped bits in 64ths from 5/64 to 3/8 in a red metal box. A bagful of each size. Got it at Woodcraft years ago, and have never seen it anywhere or any time since. If anyone has one they’re not using, let’s talk.
Hi Friends. I'm doing some shop cleaning and I have some Japanese whetstones that I no longer use. The large one is 800. The other two are dual sided, but I don't recall the exact grit. Also included is a holder and honing guide. Free to a good home who will use them, just pay for shipping from Cleveland, OH.
[font="Roboto Condensed", sans-serif]PORTER-CABLE PC560 QUIK JIG POCKET HOLE JOINERY SYSTEM - [/font] Currently, a few on eBay, asking as much as $200. Buy mine, instead. I do not have the original box, but it comes with everything as it did from the factory. Drill bit, two square drive bits to put the screws in and factory manual. There are no pocket hole screws included, but I do have several hundred 1 1/2" coarse thread screws if you need some just ask. Asking $110 shipped to you (CONUS). $100 if you are local.
Here is an excerpt, but the whole thing is in depth and worth reading.
Right out of the box, the Porter-Cable PC560 Quik Jig Pocket Hole Joinery System sets itself apart from other pocket hole jig systems.
For starters, the jig is large and hefty, without being too bulky or cumbersome, and is built primarily of aluminum with steel and ABS plastic accessories.
The jig contains on board storage for the included pocket hole drill bit and depth stop along with two square drive bits of different lengths.
Also included in the box is an assortment of screws, a hex wrench for setting the depth stop on the cutting bit, and a locking-plier (vice-grip type)
clamp for holding two workpieces flush when screwing them together.
The Porter-Cable PC560 Quik Jig itself features mounting screw holes on the bottom and the front edge so that the tool can be mounted in either the standard vertical or the horizontal “flatback” position (best used for very long workpieces). The workpieces are held 1-1/2 inches above the table, in either position, so a standard 2×4 works perfectly to support longer workpieces.
The grooved aluminum face keeps the work from sliding, and the clamping mechanism holds the work securely while allowing the operator to easily adjust the Porter-Cable PC560 Quik Jig to hold pieces ranging from 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches in thickness. An automatically adjusting drill depth guide is integrated within the clamping mechanism, meaning the operator can switch between different material thicknesses without adjusting the collar on the drill bit. For drilling multiple pieces of the same thickness, the jig features a repeat handle, allowing the operator to swap workpieces with the flick of a finger.
I'm looking at replacing our stair railings, and am not sure how to best go about it, so I'm looking to you for answers!
We're replacing all the hardwood flooring in the house, and the stairs will be converted from carpet to hardwood (natural maple). The stairs currently have a handrail with balusters attached to the bottom 4.5 stairs, and then remaining 8.5 stairs just have a standard handrail attached to the wall. That top section attached to the wall is easy, but I'm not familiar with how to best approach the bottom section that gets attached to the stairs themselves.
There's a local woodworking place that will provide custom parts for this, which you can mix/match with "stock" parts. I would love to get a curly maple handrail (and maybe newel post), then use standard white balusters. I don't think I can make the handrails themselves, as I don't have a shaper or the proper cutters. The woodworking place will make the parts, but won't do measurements or installation.
Who would I contact to do this sort of work? The flooring company we're using seemed ok with removing/replacing what already exists, but didn't seem eager to go beyond that. Are there people that specialize in installing these?
How hard is this to just do myself, if others are making the parts? I can't imagine it's that tough, although getting the right measurements for ordering would make me a bit nervous, just because I don't have experience. So if there are any great resources, feel free to point me toward them.
Can this all be done well after the hardwood stairs are installed, or does it need to be planned as part of that process?
The woodworking place wasn't able to give any estimated pricing without dimensions, so I have no clue what this would cost and if it's going to be outside the budget. I'm willing to splurge a little, within reason.
have a Stanley Bailey 4 1/2 flat bottom plane for sale. As to what type I am not sure. It has 3 Patent dates which makes it either a 11 or 12, But both the knob and tote although made by Stanley are not original to the plane.
The blade was very badly pitted by the chip breaker, which is quite common. I replaced blade with precision ground a Keen Kutter blade that was made by Stanley. Other than the blade, tote and and knob all the parts are original to the plane. Totes brake, knobs split, and blades are replaced with aftermarket blades
Anyway the sides are ground square to the bottom and the bottom is flat within .001. I believe it was repainted before I got it, and it looks nice. The first picture is with it completely apart so you know everything works. It has a close fitting frog at the front making it one of the more desired planes Stanley made.
Asking $150 plus shipping. If you are looking for a 4 1/2 then you can not find a better one at this cost.
One of the last years for PM66. Hobby use, comes with the HTC outfieed rollers. 1600.00. With blades, incra miter gauges, extra table inserts, PM tenon jig, Beismeyer splitter and a cove cutting jig 1900.00.
The MiniMax is 1700.00 with two 1" carbide blades (Lenox trimaster and Laguna resaw blade and a 1/2 Diemaster.)
These are for pick up in Ewing, NJ and are down 13 steps into my shop. Contact me for pics. Mine are too large for posting.
