American Made Powermatic 66 tablesaw.

3HP motor. 12 foot cord currently with a NEMA 10-50p plug on it.

52" Beisemeyer style fence. Locks rock solid.

Stock blade insert, plus 4 wood zero clearance/dado, plus a phenolic zero clearance, plus a brand new solid surface insert (zero clearance, but unused.

Includes JET/HTC mobile base specific to this saw.

I've had the saw 13 years as a hobbiest, it's run perfectly the whole time. Only selling because I bought a sawstop.

Had a pair of cherry Federal sidetables, ebony  corner edging and fan inlays, was real proud of the matched pair of tables. the top surface was urethane finished. Used  them beside my bed for several months. Nothing on the table except a small battery powered alarm clock with lit time display.  A  week ago, found a black stain material on the top surface, the stain appeared to be on the top, not in it. you could feel the edge with your fingernail. Talking to all family members and the cleaning lady, no one seemed to have an idea what it was.  I tested a range of solvents, none of which seemed to touch it.  I  then took a cabinet scraper and began carefully scraping it  off the top of this finish (or so I thought). As I scraped it carefully it became obvious it actually extended through the urethane finish and even into the wood.  What the bejeezus was it. Closer inspection of the clock, showed AAA batteries in the   bottom of the clock, with a ribbon, that serves to help remove the batteries. The ribbon was protruding from the bottom of the clock, it did not appear to have any substance on it. the shape of the protrudingd ribbon closely mirrored the  shape of the black stain. But removing the batteries showed a thin rim of breakdown on the tip of one of the batteries. A friend   dropped by and said  he was aware  batteries can do this.was there local microcircuits burning into the urethan or w as it  a  chemical thing. 
     Have any of you had a similar problem.  I will never a again place a battery operated device on a wood finish, without a  pad. I will be able to refinish the spot, but it will be a slight divot  from the scraping and a small bit of the black stain will remain in the wood. 

Ray Knight

I have a piece of walnut that inside the bark and the whitewood is 3 and 7/16 inches on the smaller end. It is 34 inches long. what is the rough circumference of the dark wood once turned.   A fluted piece for a hutch I have nearly completed. I'm making the face frame for the top. I'll halve it and mount on each end.
Thanks.

Any thoughts here about Vanguard Comfort Series 4550 vinyl windows by MI? I was talking to a contractor and said I was interested in Marvin. He said the Vanguard vinyl had better insulation, better warranty, and was otherwise fairly indistinguishable from Marvin. I don’t see much on the internet about this brand. Would appreciate any insight or experience.

Thanks.

So as not to hijack other threads, I decided to post this link...I think most people are shaving hair on their arms or slicing printer paper to demonstrate how sharp they can get their edges. But is that really good enough? How clean is the cut? IOW, how sharp is "sharp"..Most of he time I stab a paper towel then make a slicing cut downward...when it cuts CLEANLY, {smooth edges, no tearing} it's good enough for woodcarving or woodworking. And if you really want to get serious, try the same thing using single ply, DRY toilet tissue..and dampened tissue takes it to an even higher plane. I haven't gotten there yet! Make your towel cut in TWO directions because kitchen towels seem to be woven in two directions, like cloth.

If you think woodworkers are obsessed with sharpening, check out some of the shaving forums!!



https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/blogs...bPEALw_wcB

A neighbor has asked about preparing eastern red cedar for use in a deck project.
Not a lot of experience; however, my suggestion would be to strip the park since that's what attracts the bugs. What else should she do?

GM

Trapper  said he was considering the Veritas MK11 system. He also stated he hadn't warmed up to water stones inquired about. I said I use the Veritas system and  would take some pictures. Here is my reply with pictures

I first learned about a Tormek machine at Holtsfest in little Amana back in the summer 1988. It was a craft fair in a field and there were some tool suppliers there. There was a guy that traveled the show circuit selling them. I played with it but i wasn't ready for the $325 and so I bought one the next year.. The machine didn't have a place for a horizontal bar and so on. Anyway it is a great machine at the time but slow. Today I use it mostly for sharpening knives. I use the leather strap for everything. The stone diameter is 7 7/8ths today not 10 inch's anymore

   

Here is my set up today I am not sure about the CBN wheels  I think one is an 80 and the other one is a 360. The 80 is quite course and removes material very quickly. For example if you get a plane at a flea marked the blade usually needs a lot of reshaping. I grind the first or primary bevel angle at 22 1/2 degrees.  I have my bars set so I just switch bars on the finer wheel.

   

As you can see from just the chisels on the wall one can spend a lot of time sharpening. I also have a collection of Keen Kutter K series planes both flat bottom and corrugated , not there yet but it will be 14 plane irons the take care of plus I also have several other planes so I can't spent all day re-sharpening. Anyway the two open drawers are where all the jigs fixtures honing paste. diamond plate and water stones are kept and what ever is kept

   

   

I do not want to get into a discussion of what I am doing wrong but I sharpen every thing at 25 degrees. I like 25  Degrees.  22 1/2  degrees included angle is the prefect cutting angle and 25 degrees is closer to prefect than 30. The pattern shop I worked in had their rest set at 27 1/2 because they worked in both soft and hard woods. I like 25 degrees and if you think differently then discuss it in your own post, not mine. 

   

Below are some pictures of setting the rest bar for lathe gouges and the likes.  I know that if I use the a hole to set my bar for chisels and plane iron and a distance of 1 7/8ths from the holding fixture base I will get a 22 1/2 degree grind on every thing. Even if the bar is moved set the bar to the A hole and set the blade off from my other gauge and grind. CBN on a slow speed grinder grinds cool enough so one doesn't need to worry and when the sparks come over the top of the tool it is done

   

   

   

I like the start honing with a 1000 diamond stone. I can push and pull  the blade on at this stage. I use water out of my dehumidifier because there is no nothing in the water, no lime build up. I do not use a rust inhibitor. When Water evaporates it leaves a residue and eventual it will clog a diamond stone.. The coolant is checked on our grinders daily for the right amount of coolant. Part of the ISO for aerospace parts which is worse than just ISO certification. If coolant drips on the magnetic chuck it is miserable to get it off the next day after it is dried. I use a heat gun to dry the diamond. NO anything build up on the stone. I heat gun also works great for removing pressure sensitive sanding discs 

   

I use the Veritas roller system on the diamond stone and the 4000- 8000 grit Waterstone   I really like this system fast reliable and easy to use. I like the crowned roller for doing smoother blades . It crowns the blade and is all but fool proof at controlling the end results on the blade. You can take it out use it but it back in the holder and do a quick hone and go back to work.

I only pull when on the Waterstone. I do not want my edge digging in on a push cut. Once I stone the back of the iron with the finish stone I never touch that surface to a courser grit. A micro bevel is put on with the 1000, so only about 10 pull strokes on the two remaining stones and I am done, except for the leather wheel. the leather takes the edge to a whole different world in about 30 seconds

   

I like the Veritas system it is easy reliable and fool proof, although pricy. I have some filister planes that the angle of the blades are around 25 degrees off from square and I am considering getting their angle finer to help with that. When you cut a rabbit you want a flat bottom.

 Anyway I am never more than 3 steps from start to finish when sharpening and  even if I have a lot of reshaping to do it hardly ever take more than 5 minutes and usually it takes more time to get the stuff out than to touch up an edge.

I hope this helps.

Tom

At a recent meeting of out woodworker's club, we discussed shop safety, and the topic of vibration came up.  Several members suggested ant-vibration gloves.  In searching the internet, I find few reliable reviews.  The search also uncovered a separate issue of going with full fingered or fingerless.  One forum just devolved into a discussion of tools with lower vibration.  I can't afford to buy all new sanders, etc. so I focused on the gloves which seem much more affordable.  I was wondering what those of you who wear gloves had experienced.

I have a Min Max S45 for sale. I am located in north central Iowa. Nashua to be exact. The machine has Carter ball bearing guides so the specks may be a little different from original. Resaw is 9 5/8ths maybe can squeeze       9 3/4. 17 1/4 cut off from blade to frame, and the table top is 36 inches off the floor. It is 220 volts. Has cast iron wheels. Pick up only. Asking $875.

Pictures say it all.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

Thanks for looking

Tom

This is going in the kitchen. Before anyone says it’s a bad idea because of grease, etc., I should let you know the kitchen is huge, about 600 sqft so the fan will be far from the stove. 
Anyway I thought I’d use the 20 amp circuit that feeds two outlets on one of the countertops. These are fed by a gfci. There are a lot of wires in the box that houses the gfci, so I thought I’d put one of the outlets and the fan switch in a new two gang box and go from there. Wiring would be much simpler that way. 
Is this doable?