I promised a build. Below is a summarised version of the details on my website ...


In December 2023 I began designing and building two carver chairs to accompany the 6 bentwood chairs we have owned for the past 40 years. The chairs we have were purchased all those years ago along with a farmhouse table, which is around 200 years old. Although we cherish this table, we need something larger, and time has come to replace it and add two more chairs.



I started thinking about the chairs I would build, and I took inspiration from this picture ...



It has a name: DC 09, and it was designed by the Japanese- Scandinavian duo, Kyoko Inoda and Nils Sveje, in 2011. It is built by the Miyazaki factory in Japan.




There is a challenge here - can I replicate it purely from photos?

Start of seats for two chairs ...




To reproduce the DC 09 design, I explored and saved all the videos and all photos I could find. From these I estimate or calculate sizes, approximate dimensions, and refine these over multiple examples. Here are some of the photos I used ....

Seat upper and under sides ..



The underside of the seat: note the rounded ends of the tenons, and the smooth flow as the tapered edges link with the base …




First shaping ..



It's rougher than it looks. A travisher begins the process of smoothing the curves ..



Every now-and-then a scraper will refine the tear out ...



Before proceeding, the outline is cut out ...



Shaping the mortises ...



With raking light, the tear out and bumps are more easily seen, and now sanded down with 80 grit (more will be done much later on). The upper side  ...







For the underside,  I relied on a Auriou 10-grain rasp to do most of the shaping ...





 sanded to 80-grit, this was the result. From the underside ...



The upper side, from the rear end ...





The legs were bandsawed, spokeshaved to a square finish, and then mortised ...




The legs will end up oval, and this process was begun on the router table ..



Then spokeshaves and scrapers worked to finish the shaping ...







[font="Times New Roman", serif]A test fit of the loose tenon joinery ...

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All the parts fitted, but not yet glued up ...


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Glued and wedged ...



A mock-up of the arms ...


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There's a photo on the wall behind against which to compare. Also, a first look at the completed through tenons.[/font]

[font="Times New Roman", serif][font="Times New Roman", serif]After much back-and-fro drawing, rubbing out, re-drawing, and transfering to MDF for templates ...


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Hurts to sell this, but you can't liquidate a shop without liquidating the stuff in the shop.  Made this shavehorse to make Windsor  chairs.  always found most shavehorses uncomfortable to sit on, so I fit a vintage steel tractor seat and made it adjustable, so works for tall and short.  Used cherry (cause I had it) and made an extra anvil to use for small parts. Can take it apart easily to stick in your car trunk, goes  back together easily & quickly. Selling as a group with the 3 pictured drawknives,  one is radially adjustable and can switch from bevel up to bevel down, the other two are different versions of foldup, blocks the sharp edge and can stick in your tool bag. Have leather  scabbards for the ones that need it.  The knifes are all in excellent condition, sharpened regularly and well.  

located in southern Indiana, near Louisville, pickup only. $350 for the shavehorse as described and the three pictured and described drawknifes. 
812-282-4647
rayknight@twc.com

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Lots of old tools........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWTYaJQNAVE

Decided I wanted better speed control on my Delta/Rockwell radial drill press. I ended up replacing the 1/2 HP original Rockwell (Leeson) motor with a 1 HP 3 phase Baldor. Driving this motor is a Lenze variable frequency drive. I modified the drive by adding a potentiometer to allow me to dial in any speed from 240 RPM to around 2400 RPM. 

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This is the best video I have found to visually demonstrate how to get the sharpest edges in the least amount of time. From Scary Sharp to Power Sharp...Power sharpening starts at about 16 minutes in...Just because Roger is a talented, prize-winning wood carver and sharpens carving tools, doesn't mean that his tools and methods can't be used to sharpen just about anything with an edge on it....just change the technique a bit and Bob's your uncle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYQAN9nriM4

I was just looking and a Grizzly 513X2 bandsaw is listed at $1,995. That is quite a jump from what they used to be. As a matter of fact all the saws took a big jump. Is there that much of a demand for saws at that price?

Tom

I tried putting plywood with 2x4s under it and getting on my hands and knees. I have actually tried several different ways. Then I built a torsion box style of table and put folding legs under it. The table is 41 1/2 inches wide 84 inches long and 3 inches thick. I put a sheet of OSB on it and my wife and neighbors use it as a table for garage sales. I do not pay real close attention to the depth of the blade because I cut into the table. Been doing it for about 24 years . I only cut maybe 10 sheets a year so it will still be going strong when I am gone. If I were to build another table I would make it smaller and only about 2 inches thick. It has gotten a lot heavier as I have aged.

I do my cutting outside, summer or winter and saw dust is not a concern so I do not worry about dust collection. Usually I open the garage doors for a little more room around the end of the table but my wife's baby is in the garage so the door was shut. I get the truck just off the street and pull the plywood out of the truck onto the table .

   

   

   

I showed this because I do not need a rocking table for x amount of hundred dollars so I can lift a sheet of plywood from vertical to horizontal or to roll it into my shop. I don't need a big sheet of 1 1 /2 pink foam on the floor so I can cut on my hands and knees. Yes I have to store the table but one would have to store the foam board also.

I bought this set up and have been using it for over 24 years also and I am quite happy with it, except for the fact that I have to hunt down an extension power cord.  It clamps to the plywood and guides the saw just like a track saw. I add 1 1/4 inches to the dimension mark the two point on the wood line it up and cut.

   

   

I found that the blade was quite dull and I decided to get a new on. But then I though I do have a battery powers circular saw from Menards I don't use it much but it does have a new blade on it so I decided to retire the old saw and mount the battery saw to the plate. It will be lighter and no cord to chase down. The most important part of the job is getting the blade straight with the plate so it cuts straight, if not straight it will pull to one side.

Will I get a track saw? No. In my opinion a track saw will never replace a table saw. I have a very good table saw.  I also have (I feel a very good ) setup for braking down plywood and getting it to manageable sizes so I can handle it at the table saw.. There are other items like being able to square up a piece of plywood but if it clamps on there is room for arrow. So there is a lot of expense after just the purchase  I won't be duplicating what I already have. 

Believe me I have though about one. I am on the Makita battery platform so I would like a Makita but the cost is out of sight for me. If I didn't have what I have I would buy the Wen battery track saw and comparable track in a heart beat.. Don't need all the bells and whistles.

Believe it or not I am looking forward to reading your responses

Tom

and help keep up the activity in the hand tool forum..tools, furniture, jigs, whatever...I'll go first...



Whittling/woodcarving knives..Top one made a few years ago...Why do knife handles all have to look the same? Your hand will get used to them..

Bottom two knives are the first ones I ever made and that would have been in the  mid sixties...Blades were made from an old throttle leaf spring, hardened and tempered...they have been sharpened many times..The blades were all epoxied into holes drilled into the handles.I have never had one come out or get loose... Some made using 01 tool steel, HSS and some of Damascus steel....I have made hundreds since that time. I do like using exotic woods these days.

I’ve gotten into some model building and small scale home building (think period correct doll houses) and am looking for the Byrnes table saw and thickness sander. Unfortunately, Jim Byrnes passed in October 2023 and while there’s hope the company will continue it’s unclear at this point. If anyone has one or both and would like to sell, I’d be interested. I’m located in Charlotte, NC.

I would like a suggestion for a finish for a set of dining room chairs.  I would like a satin wipe-on or brush on finish that is easy to apply. I just finished a walnut coffee table with Osmo Polyx hard wax and think that it is a beautiful finish, but I don't know if it is robust enough for a set of chairs.  I'd welcome any and all suggestions and comments.  Thanks.

          -Howard