What's an OE sander? I'm confused...

This thread is useless witho.....

Wait, um.....

Okay, what's the story?

I would use nothing but 3/4" plywood for upper cabinets. Ever lift a stack of dishes 6-8" high and feel the weight? When I make my uppers I make them out of 3/4" plywood, and I dado the bottoms, rabbett the tops, rabbet the back onto them and I glue and screw the things to oblivion. I've never ever had one fall off the wall. Yet I have seen and been asked to fix 1/2" cabinets that fell off, even ones that were sitting on a cleat. Ever see a kid pull a chair up to a set of cabinets and use the upper cabinet to pull themselves up so they can stand on the countertop? I have. No imagine the cabinet being pulled off the wall. I've heard of that happening twice because I replaced the cabinets in one case, and rebuilt the other ones in another case.

I saw some 1/2" ones made by a woodworker recently and his comment was "we won't be putting heavy stuff in those upper cabinets so 1/2" is fine." The cabinets in his current house are stuffed top to bottom with stuff. How he thinks his family is suddenly going to change how they store stuff is a mystery to me. He'll be scraping on of his cabinets up off the floor in no time. He used prefinished plywood, no screws, just staples and no glue. Even if he used glue the prefinished plywood would prevent it from sticking.

I'd be concerned that it's so uncommon that a potential buyer might think "Oh those poor souls! Every cabinet door is messed up!"

Come up with a way to make it obvious, like scallop the back side of the bottom rail?

I was always told to watch out for the ones with 3 patent dates, I think they are Type 11's.

I know the Type 17's are supposed to be heavier castings, and they have the rubber or plastic adjustment knob, but other than that, are there any changes that make them better planes?

I've never run into a 12" blade that I didn't like. I've used Frued, Hitachi, DeWalt, and even Irwin and they have all worked great.

I think you need to decide " how fine " you want to go then check out the reviews and pricing at Amazon for xx-tooth 12 inch blades. You will probably be looking at about $40 and up for a blade with good ratings.

Here is one possibility that you may like; I have this one and like it http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU88R012-Ind...inch+fine+blade

I don't know any other way then to run the cleaner through. I would take a couple of quarts and let it recycle for quite some time. Take 2 more quarts of clean stuff and run it through. I'm I would probably run another 2 quarts after that.

I've never used oil in mine so I'm just guessing based on latex cleaning.

I go overboard cleaning my hose. I didn't do it right once and I had to replace it.

get you a battery terminal brush at an auto parts store or walmart. it is a round looking thing that pulls apart. one end goes into your wire terminal that fits over the post and the other end fits over the post. give both parts a good scraping, to shine things up. don't go overboard and grind them away. reinstall the wire terminal and tighten down. just washing off the crud doesn't get the crud out between post and wire. then come out tomorrow and recheck for tight. there is anti corrosion stuff you can then smear over the terminal to help prevent it. the battery terminal brush should be well under 5.00. I don't know why, though someone will, you are getting such a buildup. could be just not having things tight. then again 3yrs seems to be the going life span on a lot of batteries anymore. I would think they would at least test the battery before automatically replacing it. If tests good try cleaning things up first, then can move on to possible other problems if that doesn't work. You should also make sure the other end of your terminal wires are tight and clean.

I'd say it would be a big step up in class, and for that price it would be a no brainer if I were in that market.

Nice looking and well described - as usual.