I am having trouble thinking of a type of plastic that would be truly opaque at that thickness and that could be reliably glued into segments.

That thickness is just a little bit off from both 1/32" (0.03125") and 0.8mm (0.03150). So that exact thickness may be hard to find unless you make it yourself.

Are you looking to build up the entire blank from these layers or will you be layering it with other materials? If other materials, what does the glue need to bond this plastic to?

If you are not looking to heat weld the layers (which would give you color mixing in the weld), my WAG is that you need a thermosetting plastic rather than a thermoplastic plastic.

Is this a test?

From a practical application standpoint, what's the difference between this plane and the Veritas shooting plane. Seems they both do the same task, the miter plane perhaps being more versatile while the shooting plane has the skewed blade.

My Tiller is used about as much as yours is. I've had it 7 years now. I sometimes remember to pour a little stabil in it before winter. I've never had a problem getting it running in the spring.

I think one thing that helps is right after I bought it the pull starter spring broke. I've since been starting it with my 1/2" cordless drill by using a socket to spin the big exposed nut on the end of the crank. Aside from being easy as hell, in the spring this lets me spin the engine for 30 second or so (whatever it takes) to get the fuel really flowing well before it fires up.

My other equipment does not get gummed up either. Must be luck.

Easiest fastest and cheapest is to call pens or other truck rental company and rent a lift gate truck for an afternoon.

Or the other method is to use a small homebuilt trailer behind the riding mower since you are that close..


I'm slowly building all my stuff into carts so when we move to Charlotte in a few years it's mainly a matter of rolling all the carts out of the shop and on the truck. Only hard part is I can't get the truck to the shop so that will be fun. The 36" 1875 bandsaw will be really fun...

My wife bought me a bottle of that a few months ago. We loved it, and not just for the name! Enjoy!!

I just had a concrete driveway installed at my home by a concrete company. It all looks good (3000 sq ft) except for the section right in front of the two car garage. There are divits, uneven places and some actual footprints in the concrete. This particular section of concrete was poured on Friday, 8/7. I contacted the contractor and he's coming out tomorrow night to look at it and see what can be done. What's the right way to fix this? I'm guessing the only correct way of doing it is by cutting it out and replacing it. I'd imagine that putting a slurry of concrete on top will not be a long term repair. Since I know very little about concrete, I'm trying to get ready for him to arrive tomorrow and be prepared for whatever he says to fix it. I've attached some pictures so you can see what I'm talking about.













I have not paid the guy any money at this point and it isn't a cheap driveway by any means. But if you guys say this is acceptable and I should be happy with it, I'll cut him a check tomorrow when he gets here. But I'm not happy with it and I think it really makes my home look like crap. We had color added to the concrete so it would accent our home, not expecting the actual concrete pour to detract from it. I certainly understand it will take some time for the color to completely even out but the concrete itself will not. It's tough to see but there are also some voids that go fairly deep. Like I said, I think the best fix is to cut the bad sections out and replace. The sections that are bad all came from one concrete truck and the contractor said the concrete just didn't seem right. He thinks the truck was held up at the plant too long. I dunno, can a concrete contractor refuse a load of concrete? Guess we'll see what he says tomorrow. Thanks for any help.

Hey Troy,

I can't help identify the plane, but you should bring it with you when you go to Manchester.

Slick

There was a thread about cutting treads between skirts back in march; search for "Stair tread and nailer question"

This was my post;

Scoony said:
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....For cutting the treads, I thinking about making a plywood track for the circular saw, and using a good blade and masking tape to prevent tear out. All I would have to do is line up the edge of the track/jig to the cut line, clamp and cut.... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------



You're almost there! Now just combine your stair tread jig and skill saw jig. Glue and staple 1/4" plywood to the bottom of your tread jig(s) (I use three.). Cut the excess off with the saw and blade you'll be using to cut the treads, then add one layer of masking tape to the edge of the saw's shoe. Remove and handle the jigs carefully after tightening the wingnuts. Clamp it on top of the tread, score with razor, and cut away. The tape will keep the cut a whisker away from the score line and give a snug fit.

When I do new treads over existing, I spread construction adhesive with a 3/16" notched trowel. If they're going on the stringers, I glue every shim, no matter how thin, and run a good 1/2" bead of adhesive. Either way, treads just get nailed with 8d's through my 15ga finish gun. If the old treads were removed, screw the risers to the back of the tread as if everything was new, if not then new 1/4" birch ply. risers will cover the front of the existing treads and hide any small gaps at the new tread. I will add that on about 50% of the stairs I do, I cut the skirtboard to fit the treads and risers. I don't need the tread jigs, this requires a long length of 1/2" baseboard and a stack of cardboard triangles.

If you've added hardwood to one or both floors, chances are the first and/or last riser will be wrong. Now would be a good time to correct that.