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| Wood Stain |
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Posted by: Del Hilburn - 08-22-2015, 10:14 AM - Forum: Finishing
- Replies (4)
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I don't use stain too often after I discovered Transtint dyes, but when I do I have gravitated to SW's BAC Wiping Stains most of the time. It's a pro product but your local SW will at least know about it and may even have some in stock. It works like no other stain I have ever used. Easy to apply, easy to wipe off, and amazing color set even on hard to stain woods. The only downside is you have to spray the first coat over it, but rattle can shellac will work if you don't have spray equipment. Then you can apply anything, anyway you like. I also use General Finishes Gel Stains sometimes, especially as a glaze over a sealed surface.
John
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| Making cove molding |
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Posted by: Leinie - 08-22-2015, 10:03 AM - Forum: Woodworking
- Replies (3)
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I don't know of a "best" blade. I've always used a rip blade for that. Slow, steady and shallow passes seem best. Make a sanding block to fit the cove from a sample piece of the molding. Line the surface with plastic packing tape and fill the area with Bondo. When the Bondo cures, remove it from the molding and wrap sandpaper around it. Presto! Custom sanding block.
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| I love electrical - service and panel questions |
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Posted by: live4ever - 08-22-2015, 03:34 AM - Forum: Home Improvement
- Replies (2)
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live4ever said:
Facts:
- Aerial service drop comes to the back of the house and drops down to an outdoor main panel, which has a 100A breaker. However, the three service wires are #2 copper.
- From the main panel, there is approximately 80' of 1-1/2" aluminum conduit running through the house carrying the 2/0 to the meter and subpanel, located in the garage.
What conductors are you referring to here? The overhead service conductors that are (presumably) owned by the utility, or the conductors connected to those and running down to your panel? The meter is not right at the bottom of the service drop from the utility? And are they 2/0, or #2 (huge difference)?
live4ever said:
- The subpanel has 10 circuits.
- Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, it appears the system is not grounded properly. I do not see any bare copper in the main panel outdoors, and no evidence of thicker bare copper in the subpanel in the garage. I have had an outlet tester read grounded on the 3 prong outlets in the house, and it's possible the system is grounded to water/gas pipes somewhere, but there is no evidence of that around the water or gas pipe entrances.
It's possible that's it's not grounded, if it's old enough, but that's kind of surprising. There should be grounding electrodes at the first disconnect, wherever that is. Metal cold water pipe, and a secondary electrode system is the norm, like ground rods (among other types).
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live4ever said:
My understanding
(not necessarily what I have been told by electricians - their thoughts varied widely)
My understanding is that due to the size of the conduit between main breaker panel (outdoors) and the meter, 125A is the largest total amperage I can have, which would be accomplished by swapping the 100A breaker for a 125A (assuming the 125A breaker is allowed by the specs of the outdoor box). I could feasibly upgrade to 200A by replacing the conduit to 2" Sch80 PVC since the wires are 2/0. Is this all correct?
The conduit size is dictated by the conductor number and size. The ampacity of the conductors is dictated by their material and insulation rating per NEC Table 310.15(B)(16). BUT, for service entrance conductors that supply the entire dwelling unit, a different table is used [NEC 310.15(B)(7)], which allows higher current on the same size conductors. 2/0 copper is good up to a 200A service, while #2 copper is only good to 125A as service entrance or feeder conductors supplying the entire dwelling unit.
live4ever said:
My other understanding is that it is OK to use a 200A rated panel as the new subpanel even though it would have a 100A (or potentially 125A) main breaker in front of it.
Yes, the main breaker serves as a disconnect only at that point, if the upstream breaker is lower rated. The conductors can be sized to the upstream breaker. But if it's a subpanel that doesn't serve the entire dwelling unit, you have to size the conductors using the well-known ampacity table 310.16 (recently changed to 310.15(B)(16)).
live4ever said:
Regarding the grounding, I know that code calls for 2 grounding rods. Where should they be located? Does it matter if they connect to the main box outdoors or to the subpanel? Could there be one grounding rod in each location?
Grounding electrodes are supposed to be at the service equipment, or the first disconnect (same thing, AFAIK). A single ground rod is adequate IF it has a resistance to ground of less than 25 ohms, which isn't easy to test, so normally two are driven with no testing required. Outbuildings are also required to have a grounding electrode system, so you could have more than one such system. Doesn't matter if there's a 3- or 4-conductor feeder to the outbuilding (3-conductor is grandfathered, but no longer permitted for new work).
I'm doing this from memory, so I may be a little off on something, but not drastically. I wouldn't think. 
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| Columbian Vise find - Any info |
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Posted by: jussi - 08-21-2015, 02:38 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools
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On a side note. They also had a copy of a emmert vise. I actually got really excited when I first saw it, thinking it was the real deal, then saw the made in taiwan sticker. They were asking $75. Is that a good price?
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| I have an idea for a sled and need your opinion |
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Posted by: Arlin Eastman - 08-21-2015, 12:13 PM - Forum: Woodworking Power Tools
- Replies (4)
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When I used sleds in the past I just made fixtures to fit the sled for the purpose required.
It worked just fine.
Using the fence as a guide is to me awkward, it has to be set up exactly in the same place each time and limits long cuts.
I would use what you have and make different back fences set up on registration pins to swap as needed
Joe
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