Sounds like the humidity is pretty high in the basement which isn't a good thing. You also have a free dehumidifier by the sounds of it. I'd put a pan under the units and run the drain to the sump pump or a condensate pump. And then insulate all the pipes as well.

Also a dehumidifier need so be down there to control the moisture.

Here's a thread from last month.

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads...amp;sb=5&o=

You're likely missing two of these:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/plug-p-84365.html

Part 56 in Diagram A on this page:

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-4...13757.html

For the last coat, I like to rub the finish in with a white scotchbrite pad.

Also the finish will dry faster with each successive coat. If it gets too sticky to rub off, simply apply a little more.

I always thought it was octoberish they start. But, despite WGBH being my local PBS Station, who also produces the show, it starts later here than elsewhere because WGBH broadcasts fund raising drives at the time other stations are showing it. Hence, I get it later from the producing PBS station than everyone else.

I am quite certain it will return though, only because during a veneering workshop I took at the North Bennett Street School two months ago I overheard staff saying Dan Faia was taping an episode about then.

(Does that qualify as a stealth gloat? )

Mike

#1 (&3) Certainly, slightly sanded shellac surely should suit the specification smartly, securing a slightly silky surface, specially if you dilute slightly.

You've been to the water parks and seen that rubber style coating they put on the concrete? The stuff seems a perfect item for something like this. I wonder why they don't come up with this for drives?

I think I know your answer, but I'm not a concrete expert, but I think the best solution isn't going to please you.

A friend still has a Lignomat that he swears by. I've spent the $$$ for 2, to have them 1 fall apart, 2 get lost. I've tried many. Currently I have a bunch of these from when HD, or Lowes had them for some ridiculous price, seems like 5.99 or something. Seeing that in the past I had lost or broken a few I bought a dozen. So far the one I have used is going on 3, maybe 4 years, and it is the best one I have ever had because it was so cheap, and it works. Very close to the accuracy of my buddies Lingomat ($499.00) and I have yet to break it. Seems if you are looking for talking points that would cover them. I will say it eats batteries compared to others I have used.

The only real drill for drilling concrete is an sds if you drill enough holes to need it. Hammer drills don't really drill better than a regular drill. There just isn't enough impact to do anything with them.

An sds won't break your arm like a high torque drill will. IE 90* drill with an auger or hole saw can do some serious damage to you. BTDT when it decides to grab.

For drilling the holes you did a plain old cordless drill will do it just fine though slower than an sds and often it won't be as round of a hole. I find though that a regular drill does a better hole than it does if it's in hammer mode.

Herb,
My 10" Craftsman/Rikon came with a fence that I wasn't happy with so I made a replacement. My saw already had T-track on the front but I would have bolted on some T-track if it didn't. My design allows the fence to move all the way left until it hits the frame. The factory fence was confined to the table top.





Here's the resaw fence I made for the 14" bandsaw I sold 5 years ago. It's MDF and it clamps to the table. I've never used it on this 10" saw but it fits!






Mike