$20 sounds like a pretty good deal.

Are you indicating the Senco needs service or that it has always been slow to build up pressure? Parts can get kinda expensive but I can't imagine re-building the Senco would be too hard.

Steve-

Any idea what the purpose is for the gauge on the end of the level - just another method of indication level?

Phil

it might be difficult to get a highly viscous material, like epoxy, to do anything more than a superficial fill of the crack, if they are very narrow. You might think about using some medium or thick CA glue to fill depending on crack size.

Width is one thing and length is another. The bed length on that 6'' jointer looks a little short to me.
Of course than depend on your projects and how long of stock you work with. It would be to short for my liking.

I've done that and it worked, but a lot of folks having trouble with the top coat(s) sticking to the factory finish. That's usually some kind of UV cured conversion varnish, and very hard. I had scuff sanded it, and primed with shellac based BIN, and the paint seemed to hold up well...but I may have just been lucky. You might try it and see if you can scratch your finish off....be sure to scuff and prime first. Too bad, painting that prefinished really gives you a smooth surface for the paint.

Why not use stripper?

You should email HF customer service to find out for sure. I think the clerk was mistaken since they don't restock damaged merchandise.

Or do they?

No.

I don't think LN will be there this year.

Maybe it can but I wouldn't. Arm R Seal has a yellow tint to it. A water borne acrylic like GP Poly would be a better choice if anything will actually hold up. Putting a hard finish over a soft one often doesn't work well.

John