No problem on using it just not lots of coats maybe 3 or 4 with sanding after 2 and 4 to make it smooth.

That is how I did it but I am sure others know other ways.

Arlin

Wow. That's very nice.

Dang, I just realized the one I linked to in the OP was only good for straight cuts.

How about this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Baileigh-MPS-3-Mul...s=beverly+shear

Although it appears to not be able to handle thick enough plate.

The door and drawer fronts I have ordered are shaker style with flat panel side showing. The inside is raised so the panel is even with the rails and stiles, making for a flat surface to mount to the drawer box.

The company uses 3/8 mdf for the panels. These will be painted.

Otherwise, you have to figure out a way to make the panel flush with the inside. Depending on the style you choose, you may have to back cut the panels so it will be flush when mounted in the rails and stiles.

What do you expect? It's a vintage Lie-Nielsen.

I have used that technique with much success. I generally used the sanding dust from a well, cleared out bag on the sander. My 4 year old pounded a nail in a cabinet door that I had built out of maple and I filled the hole with the putty, sanded it, touched up the finish and it came out very good. David

Double sided tape, even good stuff is still tape. It helps to leave it clamped up for a few minutes, or longer if you have time. Bring up the tail stock and take light cuts. If you don't want to mark the wood with the tail stock point or ring, put a spacer piece of wood (small scrap) between the tail stock and work piece.

Many slides have mounting holes that are on tabs, so they can bend out a little. Check your slides to see. If not, some should work

Really cool.

I don't think the flew was excessive considering it was wood and not extremely thick. I would like to see it with a couple of additional stop points.

No reason that wouldn't work.