It's only an 8" jointer, but there wasn't any labor to it.



Usually I run a 2x12 about 16' long through the trusses, and attach a hoist to that and use a chain hoist, or similar to lift it enough to put your base under it. No open ceiling, or shaky or unknown construction, and no buddy with a forklift, ask around if anyone has a 1 or 2 ton engine lift.



They rent these if you don't know someone with one, they break down, and most will fit in a trunk.

You need to lift it to get it on the base, you also will likely need to lift it to get it clear of all the packing as well, not to mention you may need to get it off a truck.

Im a big proponent of using what you have at least once before you "think" you need something different.

Today the upper trim piece on the POS Maytag over the range microwave broke. That was the only appliance we haven't replaced... so instead of paying $80 for a new trim piece, LOML decided to pick up a Samsung to 'match' the range. Much to my surprise, the framers put some blocking on the wall for the mounting plate.

They didn't put any for towel racks... and from how the cabinets are hung it's apparent they didn't put any there... but it was a nice surprise. I rag on 'em all the time, so thought it only fair to toss this out.

Damaged saw as a whole might = $200ish
Patiently parted out on Ebay = $1000ish

What was your question?

Have them use them on a lot of cuts, they work very well. Pricy no doubt, but as with all Jessum stuff built like a tank.
Mark

Had to look up the plane and yes you most likely will have to sharpen the blade to start with.
Jim

I confess to that addiction, not only on their site, but a hard copy of their catalog with pages dog-eared, red marks and the like.

If only I could win the lottery, but I guess I need to buy a ticket first.

Gets worse this time of year too. Maybe we should start an on-line support group[?

You need to do 2 things. Buy Garrett Hacks Handplane book. Second, find a mentor close by that can share some shop time with you. A nearby WNer, woodcraft store demo, club or guild member....

Barring that, the folks here are pretty good at helping out with this stuff.

To run moldings like that you need a Williams & Hussey style molder.

You can do it on a shaper but it is not ideal because you need to build out the outfeed fence to support the profile.

I bought my W&H last year and i also have 7 shapers so i have my needs covered. I have a head for my shapers that holds W&H knives if i ever have a special need.

the reason for two sections ( one for through and one for half blind) is because the setups are different using two different bits and two different jig setups.

Most people do not want to deal with two setups and just do HB front and back. or full front and back

In your case I will still say refer back to the manual for the two sections detailing the way to set up both cuts.

Joe