Contact Don Wilwol at TimeTestedTools.com. He is an expert on Sargents and has quite a few on the shelf. He may have spares.

A block of wood, 220 grit sand paper, a little elbow grease and 2 or 3 coats Johnson's paste wax will do it. Johnson's paste wax is a lot less expensive than Bioshield and to me provides good protection. Remember, the table top is a "work surface" and not a dinner plate therefore it doesn't need to highly polished.

Thanks for taking me on the tour with you through your pictures. Looks like you had a great time and experienced a lot. Love all of that.

Like the inside undercut. I call it a passing rim. On a bowl this small it's less critical than a larger popcorn type, but the thumb finds a natural grip there. For things like salad bowls, where a two-handed lift is normal, I put a grip outside, not in. Your design is undecided.

I'd have gone uninterrupted smooth curve outside. What does for my eye. I also don't do "feet" unless they are clearly delineated from the curve of the bowl by a cut making a bit of a reveal.

As to tear out, I don't know what tools you're using, but you want to avoid cutting up hill, because that ruffles the grain and damages can be fairly deep in some cases, calling for a long time sanding. I use broad sweep gouges for final cuts, old style, because I can make a shear and skewed cut, with the final edge exit parallel to the surface. Makes a shaving which is firm on the leading edge, and feathered on exit.

Gross example for demonstrations. The lead is visibly thicker than the exit.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...ngWide.jpg

Finishing cuts are much narrower, especially turning the corner into the bottom. Minimizes lift in those two places where damage to the grain occurs.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...deTrim.jpg

Most "bowl gouge" types seem to favor final scraping. I'm not coordinated or patient enough to do it. Seems I always end up with an overfeed and gouge the surface. Lots of scraping videos and advice for you, with great similarity.

Outside passer with elevated grip, modest elevation "foot" with a clear reveal. About the same dimension as yours. My style. You will have yours.

You can fix both areas with Bondo, and then paint it to match. I've fixed very similar damage to what's on your round section with Bondo and it was invisible afterwards. I made a little masonite template to match the profile. I put on some Bondo and formed it to shape with the template. After it cured I filed and sanded to final shape.

John

Check for a PM

When I put a mobile base under my lathe, I used two Irwin Quick Grip bar clamps in the expansion mode placed under the bed. I didn't use a conventional mobile base (too short). I built a platform for each set of legs. Each platform has four ea casters. The legs on my Nova DVR have feet that are bolted to the base. It does raise the bed height a few inches, but I just stack multiple anti-fatigue mats to stand on when turning. Good for my sorry, worn-out knees. Another advantage of independent platforms for each set of legs, is the ability to put a rolling storage cabinet under the lathe when not in use. I have a dedicated lathe storage cabinet that houses all my chucks, tool rests, sandpaper, dead and live centers, etc.

Nice! I like the contrast. What is the frame finish?

I used my 4 speed Atlas, with a 1 hp motor for 2 years and then got a PM 3520A. Great step up. I ended up selling it. I now have a Robust Beauty that is for personal use, and a Liberty for teaching on. Main reason for keeping the Beauty... 3 hp. Do I need the extra throw on it? No, but I have it if I ever decide I need it. I do like sliding headstocks, and prefer them to the pivoting ones, though I haven't tried out the Vickmark pivoting headstock lathe, which appears to be a brute. I do have a little Jet 1224 which I keep for threaded boxes. If you sell it, within a week, you will need it. Only other lathe in this price range is the big 4224 or what ever it is PM that now has a sliding headstock. No performance difference between iron or stainless, but they do make different noises. Robust is made in the USA, so if you can afford it, Robust.

robo hippy

What kind of sink? I havent used braxton braggs clips specifically but I have used epoxied clips on a stainless sink to undermount to concrete and granite counters. They worked quite well. I expoxied the screw posts, then lifted the sink up, put the clips on and threaded the nuts on. For support somebody else was up top holding the sink up for me. In your case, I think I'd cut some 2x4s a bit too tall for between the sink and the cabinet floor and put one under vertically under each side of the sink until you figure out what you are going to do.