yep. Here's what I used in my kitchen.

http://www.mannington.com/Residential/Adura.aspx

I had a good subfloor so I just installed the "underfloor" substrate(basically, vinyl flooring without the patern0 and then put the 1'4" thick tiles over it. I left a space between tiles and grout it to like real stone. The advantage for us is it never gets cold on our feet. It was a breeze to install. It's applied with a contact cement type adhesive. I highly recommend that you look into it.

Yak, you are doing a beautiful job there. I can understand why you get $100 bills in the mail. Beautiful work.

Mel

It's been so long since I laid the table flat that I had to go look. Push the black lever under the table away from you.
00001 by Rickey, on Flickr

If you use various diameter cutters then insert plates would be needed.
You indicate that your routing is mostly done with 2" and less cutters.
In that case a 2" hole will suffice.My router table has a 3" cut out.I also have a 3/8 " plywood auxillary table with a 1-1/2" cut out that installs over the main table.

mike

I have some Supergleit friction reducer I bought in 1999. I still have most of it because I like Johnson paste wax better.

If your backsaws are like mine, the teeth are fine - too fine to clearly see without magnification. In the link below, note that shaping the teeth isn't intended to produce a tooth with a sharp point.

It's intended to produce a tooth with the same size flat spot at the apex, as all the rest.

Final sharpening will bring things to a cutting edge.

Remember that the important aspect you're trying to achieve in the first sharpening is a saw that tracks straight - not necessarily one that cuts super fast.

Joint/Shape/Set/Sharpen

"File just enough so that you can see a flat spot forming on all of the teeth - if there are one or two that aren't, it's not a big deal - subsequent sharpenings will bring them out. But only a couple... "

http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/sharpening-hand-saws

He did a great job on the beads, coves and flats. How old is he and how long has he been turning?

I hope both of you show us more.

Arlin

Good for your son in getting the wood and giving a pen away too.

I like the grain pattern and the wood looks like Ash is that correct?

Arlin

I set my hinges 3" from the door top/bottom.

I have two flip-up stops so I can drill both top and bottom of one door and then move to the next door.

I also have a gauge I made that is 6" long with the hinge hole at the right edge distance I use to set the fence depth and the two flip stops. Also sets the bit depth. Takes me just a couple of minutes to set up.

Yes, they are; and Greenlee was a respected brand, so I would expect them to be good tools. They are not Jennings pattern, which people nowadays prefer for hardwoods. If the lead screw has a coarse thread, they're probably more suited to softwoods. Only way to know is to look.