Terenzi ballista.

If the table top is just one thickness of mdf with a dado cut for the t-track, you will have problems. The top needs to be much thicker (or made of stiffer stuff), or it will sag.

I have 2 of these and the work fine. I put flurecent bulbs in then for more light.

Nice

AWESOME!

Ralph

That is a slick way of having a table and saving space too.

I did something like that but where I had a rope and block and tackle to raise the table up and I did not thing of having storage added.
Well done buddy well done.

One thing I had a problem with was the folding legs and could not figure out how to make them fold up properly since the table was not as wide as the legs were long.

Arlin

Here is a URL for DeWalt. It has nearly all the information you'll need. Page down a couple of time to see the cutting angles for different wall angles.

DeWalt Crown Molding Chart

HTH

Joel

Is this what you are talking about?

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/LTCA18.html

Arlin

I measure 15-9/32" front and 14-21/32" back at the level where the back legs get cut off flush. Hopefully you can work it out from there. I don't really think it is incredibly critical. You'll want to cut the notches in the rear stretcher after measuring the space between the back uprights. See here for reference.

When I saw the first picture my initial thought was he should have extend the base out both sides so the saw could be reversed. Didn't occur to me to just reverse the whole works in the vise. Nice job! Looks like a useful tool.