Gee, thanks.

Actually, I only did a quick sharpening of the iron so a bit more attention to it will improve performance, but a lot of what makes a plane work properly is the setup of the frog, attention to the mating surfaces of the frog to the body, as well as the fettling of the chipbreaker's mating with the iron; all of which I must have gotten right with your plane.

Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it.

Yup it's right near the corner leveler thingy. Spotted it right away. I am the finder in our family and most places I go.
Jim

That's a bummer for sure, but it's not the end of the world. You should be able to strip off the mess and start over.

John

Can you (me) use a spindle gouge on the inside of a bowl.
Is it safe,dangerous,ok to use? What should I watch for if I use one.

After looking at the manual, I don't see why not. Just line it up where you want it and drill some holes in your saw or in the mounting angle.

http://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/ma...4_9_2015_sm.pdf

Your library will have books on this subject. If you're not a library guy, your local independent (or even chain) bookstore will have books on this subject. If you live in ranch/mountain country and the nearest library or bookstore is a day's drive away, online booksellers have books on this subject.

The most accessible book on the subject is probably Garrett Hack's "The Handplane Book."

While it will require you to learn early-20th-century British English (assuming you're not already familiar with that particular dialect), "Planecraft" (the Clifford/Hampton version, not the later Sainsbury remake) will give you a comprehensive look at hand planing from the period when it was a standard professional technique.

There are others. Those will get you started.

While you're at the library, look over the other woodworking books, and check out anything that looks like it's got hand tool content. Somehow, beginners to hand tools think hand planes are how everything gets done; but, in fact, there are a lot of other hand tools that do things planes can't. The longer I work wood by hand, the more respect I have for the simple chisel, for instance. The same is true with saws.

And there are layout tools essential to hand woodworking that are much less critical for power work.

And so on.

You could make one for the cost of a short stove bolt.

How much work you put into them depends a lot on how good you want them to look. If you want them to look brand new and match the uppers as closely as possible I think the only route is to strip them completely and start over with a new finish. That's a lot of time but will give you the best chance of achieving that goal. If you want them to look sorta OK, you could try as you propose but I'm betting the repair will be obvious. If you are OK with that then all is well.

Another option is to sand them smooth and then paint them or apply a gel stain or masking stain to mask what's there and put a clear coat on top of that. Making an intentional shift in appearance is often better than trying to match something and ending up with an obvious (and unsightly) looking repair.

You can apply wipe on poly over the current finish (and it's probably lacquer, as you said) if you first clean them really, really well, then lightly sand them with 325 grit or something close, then apply a sealer coat of Sealcoat shellac, and then the poly. Getting everything on uniformly, however, is a huge challenge; spraying is so much easier for obtaining professional looking results, especially with gloss. If you absolutely can't spray, then at least use rattle can shellac for the sealer. If you just stain the bottom section, wait until it is completely dry and then spray the entire door with the shellac, then wipe on the poly.

John

I do. Saniflo was the brand. My experience was bad. It really only got used regularly 6 months out of the year when my inlaws were not in Minnesota. In 2.5 years I pulled it 4 times for various reasons. We were much happier when we replaced it with a Zoeller Qwik Jon ( spelling). The qwik jon uses a trash pump that is capable of passing solids through a 2" line. If this is going to get any sort of regular use I'd consider doing the work to re-plumb. Whatever you do, make sure you have access to the plumbing. The Zoeller shipped with a check valve for the waste line. I also added a ball valve so I could shut off the stack and used Fernco rubber fittings so the unit could be easily removed.

Black walnut has an average oven dry specific gravity of 0.55 g/cc. If your wood is at, say, 8% MC, then it would have a SG of about 0.59 g/cc, which is 36.75 lb/ft^3 in English units. A BF = 12" x 12" x 1" = 0.0833 ft^3, so 1 BF of black walnut at 8% MC will have an average weight of 3.06 lbs.

Hope that helps.

John