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I finished my bar |
Posted by: FS7 - 05-15-2023, 08:04 AM - Forum: Woodworking
- Replies (15)
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![[Image: 20230510-164350.jpg]](https://i.ibb.co/LZtJwrS/20230510-164350.jpg)
![[Image: 20230510-164422.jpg]](https://i.ibb.co/LR2LM7K/20230510-164422.jpg)
![[Image: 20230422-111508.jpg]](https://i.ibb.co/54z0hJm/20230422-111508.jpg)
![[Image: 20230510-164010.jpg]](https://i.ibb.co/8Ps7fNw/20230510-164010.jpg)
I've posted about this more than a few times, asking frequent questions and posting some updates on progress. Here it is all finished and decorated, with the only missing item being my dartboard and light just to the left of the bar.
I added a shot of the detail on the front. After building the stud wall and installing the "backsplash," I put the top on and screwed it in from underneath. Despite being cantilevered, it was quite solid. Anyway, the stud wall got 5mm flooring underlayment, and then I used milled 2x6s (planed to 1.25") to provide spacing for the stone siding and space for the trim. This was because I was using stone siding that I already had, and given its price (about $15 per square foot) I didn't want to spend freely on it. But I had just enough to fill in this spacing in this space. I milled the 2x6s to match the thickness of the siding. This way they would overlap without a gap.
Anyhow, I used 8/4 sapele to make a large base molding. These were attached with screws to the facing studs (2x6), themselves attached to the stud wall (2x4), which were in turn fastened to both the cabinets and Tapconned into the concrete slab. So they aren't going anywhere. The vertical trim is 4/4 sapele. All profiles down there are just rounded. I used 1/2" walnut buttons to cover the screw holes. I thought briefly about exposed screws, but I couldn't find anything suitable. Technically, the stainless screws on the iron shelf brackets are exposed, and those are longer screws to attach to the studs underneath (these are dual purpose, fastening the trim as well).
There is another shot of the end of the bar, prior to me changing the pendant shades and the bulbs (too bright and blue). I milled a piece of sapele down to 1/2", letting me still have some overhang from the bar top and not awkwardly overlapping the roundover from the countertop. It covers the exposed stud wall and mates with the vertical trim on the front, and butts up against the cabinet side. Above the countertop, it's 1/2" wider to cover the end of the plywood backsplash. It looks good, minus the brad nails (I had no real way to fasten it otherwise). It's fine, I just dislike having exposed fasteners.
I might add a stereo. I do have one that I intended to use (just mount in the wall with some speakers in the ceiling). I wasn't sure if it was necessary, but I just had my mom down for Mother's Day and when I said "let's go chat at the bar" the first she asked was whether there was music. So maybe I do. She also said the lights are too low. I debated this and I am not sure. There are threaded extensions and I can easily shorten them. But it's not that different from the kitchen upstairs, and I didn't find them distracting when we were sitting there talking.
On to the next project, whatever that is.
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I want to try acrylics |
Posted by: gear jammer - 05-14-2023, 11:10 PM - Forum: Woodturning
- Replies (3)
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I have some burls I want to turn into bowls. I would like to try my hand at filling the voids with epoxy and turning them.
I have bought pen blanks and some are so brittle they disintegrate. Others are nice and easy to work with. I understand the basics of forming,mixing, coloring and pouring from videos. I have a pressure pot that I picked up years ago or should I get a vacuum setup.. I watch the videos for what they use and it's all over the board.
What are your suggestions for epoxy or acrylics to start with. I would like the easy turning or softer to start out.
Thanks
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Coarse Sharpening Stone |
Posted by: BC in CT - 05-12-2023, 07:15 PM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools
- Replies (10)
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Been using the Shapton Kuromaku ceramic stones for sharpening, I've been pleased with the 1000 and 8000 stones as they work very well. However, when the need arises for a corase stone to remove material more quickly I have not had much success.
I originally started with the Atoma 400 grit diamond stone which has great reviews, and it worked really well but only for a short time. Now it feels like it hardly cuts at all. I then tried the Shapton Moss 220 grit ceramic stone but this stone really doesn't cut very well at all. It doesn't cut well with just a mist of water and creates a tremendous amount of slurry if you use too much water, but the stone cuts extremely slowly.
Looking for a better option, what do you folks use for coarse stones that you like?
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Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen |
Posted by: Cian - 05-12-2023, 07:14 AM - Forum: Woodworking Hand Tools
- Replies (16)
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Nothing alarming and many may have already noticed but...
Lee Valley has their FREE SHIPPING promo running again at the moment.
And for anyone who still prefers handwritten notes, LV's Everyman's Journal is simply a world class bound book with blank lined pages. I have used these for many years and have a shelf full (Made in North America too):
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hom...em=49L0795
Regarding our friends at Lie-Nielsen, it appears that the forges are running again.
For the last few years, I have been waiting for their bronze no. 3 to get listed - clearly a want vs need. From the beginning of Covid, they haven't been available along with several items on their site. I checked yesterday and lo-and-behold the iron body no. 3 is now ready for purchase. Still waiting for the bronze though.
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/no-...&node=4063
Enjoy!
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