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School me on (near) trimless interior doors |
Posted by: MKepke - 05-16-2023, 07:38 AM - Forum: Home Improvement
- Replies (6)
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I need to add an interior door to the room above the garage. There is a finished opening right now - just standard drywall and metal corner bead.
Unfortunately, the room has a sloped ceiling on on side of the opening, giving room for maybe 1.5" width of casing.
I'm going to need to move the opening over a bit and raise the header to allow for a proper 80" tall door - but I can't move the opening enough to clear the sloped ceiling.
All this to say, I'm probably not going to have room for a traditional 3"+ casing to hide the frame and rough opening. Don't want to chop the corners off the casing to accommodate the sloped ceiling - that always looks amateurish.
Any recommendations/experience sourcing and installing (near) trimless interior doors? I did some googling and everything I found looks like some sort of special order proprietary 'system'.
Thanks,
-Mark
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Hiding painted plywood butt jointed seams |
Posted by: joe1086 - 05-15-2023, 12:36 PM - Forum: Woodworking
- Replies (7)
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So I volunteered to make my daughter a built in for thier family room. She lives about three hours away, so I'll fabricate at home and bring the components to her house. Everything will be painted.
The configuration is that she has a large recessed alcove about 12' long, 8' high and 24" deep. There will be a bottom row of cabinets the entire length and 3' wide shelving units on each end. The upper center section will have the TV.
I've done a couple kitchen projects, so I'm fine with making the base cabs and shelving units. My question is about the countertop which will be about 16" deep, but the 12' length has me a bit perplexed. Fabricating a solid top would be difficult for several reasons (small shop, 13" planer, no way to haul a 12' top), so I was thinking fabricating the top from plywood in two or three sections. I'll need to assemble the top on site, add wood edging to the front, then prime and paint it.
We want a uniform, solid looking top. Are there techniques to hide the seams in the butted ply and edge banding so they don't telegraph when built and in the future? What type of glue? Should I depress/chamfer the joints and fill? Or other suggestions?
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