There's a piece of 6.5" wide trim on my stair railing that the bottom ends of the balusters are attached to.  It's about 3' long.  The upper end terminates at the edge of a vertical wall.  The lower end under the newel post is a mitered corner with the piece that is vertical and drops about 9" to the floor.   My phone measured the slope of this trim at 40 degrees.  So this means that the angle between it and the vertical is 130 degrees, correct?  90 degrees for the horizontal plus the 40 my phone measured?  When I go to cut that miter, do I use 65 as the miter angle (130/2) or do I use 20 (40/2)?    If I use 65, then I need to set the angle on the miter saw to 25 and make the 25 degree side  the off cut. 

If I can figure out the correct angles I can model and 3D print some setup blocks for this project as well as a clamping jig to ensure the correct angles during assembly.    

That I bought at the Tractor Fest last Labor Day...
   
Decided to sort through a few things...toss out the junk ones...and see IF I have the replacement Bits..


Got out the Black Box..
   
Opened it up..
   
Pull out a few Irwins...
   

Some of the bits needed cleaned up, BEFORE I could figure out the "Toss or Keep" part...Jennings bit, without the square, tapered end..toss.   A few were too pitted from rust, a couple no longer had their spurs....
Finally..
   
A "full set"....4/16" up to 16/16"...found the awol sizes...replaced the trashed bits..
Then roll the canvas back up..
   
Roll has 2 eyelets...you can either hang by 2 hooks on a wall, all opened up and ready for use..or...
   
Leave it rolled up, and hang it by one hook/nail/screw...
   
Where it is out of the way, until called for.

Bits are now all Irwins, or made by Irwin....Cleaned up with a wire wheel on my grinder...

Price?  Spent about $5....

Will need to decide on which. I like undermount for the looks but it’s a lot harder to replace if it needs to be replaced. Top mount is easier to replace but doesn’t look as “clean”. 
Any thoughts?

Tianli Mortiser-Google Photo Album link

Make Something YouTube

I rarely post anymore; however, I was sufficiently impressed enough with this product to make a review.

The title is a little bit click bait; however, this is the closest to a domino I have come across, and I have looked for years and tried a few products.

I first came across a video from Make Something on YouTube where he reviewed this product.  His general impression was positive and he is the reason I purchased it.

Pros:
-Cheaper than a Domino (current Domino price is $1100, the Tianli is $240 with shipping)
-Very well made-anodized aluminum and steel construction.  Tight tolerances and no slop
-Fairly easy to use.
-Repeatable mortises

Cons:
-It's not a domino
-Have to make your own tenons, but I make a bunch at one time
-Will only do 1/4" mortise in one pass, but you could do multiple passes to get thicker mortises.  I use a Whiteside 1/4" spiral up cut bit. I believe this is also the case with Domino.
-The fence will not do angles
-You have to supply your own router, this may add to the cost if you don't have a router that will fit.  Even if you do have a router, you will most likely want a dedicated router for this tool as the removal and reinstall will be cumbersome an time consuming. 
-No storage box, I bought a Rubbermaid container to store mine.

If I had to do it all over again, I would buy this again in a heartbeat.  I have a Rikon mortiser that I will be selling because of this tool.  It's easier to use than my rikon, the quality of the mortise is better, and the setup is easier/quicker.

I purchased mine off of Ebay and as far as I know it's the only place to get one.  I don't want to include a link; however, google the brand should get you to the right place.

If you're interested I recommend watching the video...a picture/video is worth a thousand words and he goes into much more detail.

Any questions please ask, I'll try to check back.

Has anyone glued up Bubinga and what glue did you use. I am using a 2 part epoxy at the moment, but am wondering if the usual Titebond or Gorilla wood glue would not work equally as well. I do not need a joint coming apart.
What say you, old wise ones of the wood world?

From what I’ve found so far electric is quieter and less cost, but do they really last?
Sure a gas powered unit isn’t limited to the availability of electric power, but that’s not a concern for my uses.
How many ton should I look for in a log splitter? I’m just a splitting 2-4 cords a year for personal use.
Thanks

I have a couple of pieces of Corian 30 x 42 that I am thinking about using to make a some router table tops. This stuff is heavy and stiff. there is no flex in it what so ever. The top side very smooth. I like router lifts but do not like fitting a lift on a plate into s top. I would rather mount the lift to the actual top of the table like I did with the shaper table top. I made the plywood top this way because of the webbed top. No matter how good the dust collection is, some will escape and I didn't want it falling through the webbing and into the cabinet . The cabenite was not made at the time of the picture

Let me give you a little more information before I get to my questions. First the fence can be mounted to a different piece of the top so the Corian doesn't need to be the size of the whole top as seen in the picture below.

   

 I prefer to use shaper jig, see picture below, for certain cuts like coping cuts, so I like a miter slot.   

   

But just because I like miter slots doesn't mean they are necessary. I like using a shaper jig and I have 2. But others have different ways of doing things and I would like to know the general conscience if a table should or should not have a miter slot.

Also I am getting used to having the amount of table out in front of the cutter. I still find it a little awkward having to reach that far. What distance between the cutter and the front of the table do you find the most comfortable? Now there is a difference between what you have and what you would like.

And lastly how wide would make you table if making a new one?

Here's my latest table build, a commission for a local customer.  She sent me this pic and asked whether I could build it.  We discussed wood types for a while; she wanted ambrosia maple, her husband walnut. 

I showed examples of the mixed woods and they loved it. 

All joinery is M&T, half lap, or dadoes and grooves.  The feet will be attached to the underside if the pillar with threaded inserts and screws.

I'm recording *every* step in video for a later YouTube video, but will take pics to update this thread.

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Hi, I saw a used demilune cabinet listed on a website that had already been sold but the shape was the most pleasing I have ever seen. I cannot take measurements and I do not have a perfect vertical picture. 

Originally I thought it was 2 simple radii but seems more likely its an ellipse and simple radius on the side. The side does not terminate at a right angle relative to the back, it continues to curve inward a bit as shown on the crude drawing and this is why I assume the side is a simple radius.

Not sure if these types of design elements were or are formalized in furniture design books. 
In any case I suppose best approach is to experiment with a full size drawing, just wondering if my assumptions are reasonable.

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Hi all,
Just wanted to share a project I just finished. Thought you might enjoy a little behind the scenes process: