For sale : used Jacobs Chuck #36, made in England, 3/16" to 3/4" capacity with #3 Morse taper and chuck key, in good condition - $35 + Shipping. PayPal or USPS money order.
For sale: a used North Bros. Yankee No. 130A spiral ratchet screwdriver with original box and (5) bits: two flat and three phillips, in excellent, like-new, condition - $40 + shipping. PayPal or USPS money oder.
I have a JET band saw thats rarely used. I always keep the blade tension off unless its being used. Recently I noticed that when engaging the tension it grinds to get there. Since I only use it a couple times per year I cant recall if that's normal. Can someone advise? Thanks
He's got four carcasses, each with one drawer on the bottom and doors at the top, with a quarter inch ply back behind the doors. For the drawer, he put a 3/4 panel at the back, to which he attached blum undermount slides.
I want mine to look pretty much the same, except a total of 74" tall, and I want two drawers at the bottom. My thought is to make each of the four sections in two pieces: a lower piece, 30" high with two drawers, and then an upper piece sitting on top with the doors and shelves behind it. face frame. But I'm not sure how to mount the undermount slides for the upper drawer. I know I can use side mount Accurides by adding a filler to accomodate for the face frame, but I'd like to stick with blum undermount.
Is the easy answer to just use a 3/4 ply panel for the back and affix the slide for the top drawer the same way I do for the bottom? Am I missing something better that would not use up so much 3/4 ply?
Thanks in advance. sorry, my sketchup skills aren't good enough yet to post a picture of what I'm talking about, but I think it's pretty straightforward.
Through use the fence on my shooting board has been eaten away a bit and I am getting some blow-out on the back of the boards I am squaring. How do I fix this? I am guessing I can insert some kind of sacrificial piece that can be replaced as it wears. What do you think?
I just received the coping foot I had ordered and it's too big for the jigsaw I want to use it on. The saw is a older small Makita barrel grip with a paddle switch (model JG1600). It would be perfect for coping given its light weight and the switch location; which would be under my thumb when held inverted. The cove on the bottom of the saw body for the tilting shoe is only about 7/8" diameter, and the half round filler to clamp the shoe in place has the blade guide mounted to the front of it. The single mounting screw is about 7/8" behind the back of the blade.
Does anyone know of a smaller than usual coping foot? The one I got would fit my Makita D handle as well as a few Craftsman D handles floating around, but they're too big, the grips too are too far away, and I'd have to lock the switch on for a grip that's comfortable and controllable.
I just got it to do a better job of eccentric turning.
I also wanted another Axminister chuck and seen that the eccentric chuck fit this chuck very well plus it came with the screw chuck and faceplate all of under $300
After 19 years, this ol' lathe suffered the dread stuck-sheave malady about a month ago, so it would not shift from the lowest speed. After numerous applications of PB Blaster and some rather gentle push-pull, those pot-metal sheaves began to crack and break up. Finally got them off the motor shaft, and the outer one off the spindle shaft. The inner one refuses to budge, and the current state of affairs is attached. The speed control still will not budge, so the mechanism behind that sheave remains stuck.
Rather than hammering on things to the point of destroying the bearings, I'm wondering whether mounting a multi-step pulley on the spindle shaft, with a corresponding one mounted backwards on the motor shaft might be the way to go, like the old lathes with multi-step drives. The motor shaft is 5/8-inch diameter and the spindle shaft appears to be 24mm diameter. The pulleys are reasonably priced at Amazon.
You should know that I am basically a flatlander but two decades ago, watching Anthony Yak, Grumbine, and others work their magic, I decided to jump aboard in a small way with the HF lathe. Collected the requisite tools, chucks, a slow-speed grinder, Wolverine/Veritas jigs, new belts, etc., in a start down the slippery slope. Did a number of spindle projects, tried unsuccessfully on a bowl or two, then decided to get back to flatland except when I really needed something round.
So here is where I need some help: (1) Am I wasting time fiddling with this old machine, (2) ideas on how to get that last sheave off, and (3) what you think about the multistep pulley approach. Opinions would be much appreciated.
