He mainly uses a froe to do that.

I travel to the Marc Adams school twice a year. I usually put my chisels in a tool roll for traveling- keeps edges and blades from getting nicked up.

I have softside toolbags and a wooden toolbox i made. I just wrap what shouldn't get banged up with a towel or rag and they take the ride just fine. No issues to date and I've probably made that trip (250 miles) 5 or 6 times. Heading there April 6th as a matter of fact, maybe I'll see you there.
pat

I have seen one in action. They are amazingly versatile.

Beautiful work. You really showed off the grain in that cherry very well.

What finish did you use?

Split top was one of the best improvements I have made in my shop. It opens up opportunities for clamping that have been so useful to me.
Ag

The discussion on the other thread that turned into sharpening jigs brings up some interesting points. Spokeshave blades seem to be problematic for many people. Others have posted some workarounds to try and adapt the jigs they have. It seems like there is still room for another sharpening jig in this world, so I'll tell you a bit about the one I came up with over the last couple of months and made in the last couple of weeks. The object was to handle spokeshave blades ( I have many and use them often) but it does so much more. I'm not going to share photos of it here just yet, but I've been talking with Steve Friedman working out details and he is going to be tester #1. These are the different things I sharpened today.




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And this.



So what is the most difficult to hold blade that you need to sharpen? I'm going to make two more of these jigs and I'm interested in having a couple of other people try them out and make comments (good or bad) about what they think of it. I'm not sure I want to go into production on this, bringing out the chain for the vise was a bit daunting and in not sure I want to do it again but if it is a hit with the people that try it we'll see.
It can handle a blade 3" wide and 3/16" thick maybe more. As short as 1", no problem. It doesn't do chisels but might if I make some changes.
So what is your most challenging blade to sharpen. Oh and does anyone need a short blade holder for the LV jigs? I don't think I'll be using mine anymore.
If you want to try this out send me a PM and I'll start a list and see where it goes.

Jim

Perhaps the easiest way is to use loose tenons. You can align the mortise in the end of the apron parallel to the long sides. It's easier than cutting tenons with angled shoulders.

For the legs, cut the mortises parallel to the floor by using a jig to support the leg one its centers. I can make a sketch if you need it.

Turning this cargo van into a camper:



This RAM Promaster has a 6'4"- tall >6' x >10' cargo area that comes with more than 500 strange holes and surfaces with strange curves. I have spent countless hours just "figuring." Playing with strange shapes of wood, some from my trash bin.

Ceiling:

The first thing up for the ceiling was the side supports. 45° bevels on 1x4. The holes are simply to allow the ceiling to breathe. I found out this would work because I had a scrap left over from a project 15 years ago. Sometimes a messy shop pays off.





Next I installed 1" furring strips along the ceiling ribs, made from 2x4, thus 1.5" wide. The curve is a perfect arc of a circle with radius somewhere in the 10-12' range. These strips were fascinating to work with. The curve is so subtle that I had to be careful which surface I was working on.



Up front, I used Loctite PL Premium 8x to attach a screwing strip to the ceiling weld just rear of the cab ceiling liner. This strip is made from 1x4, is 1.5" deep, and has the same curve as the ribs. I thought I would need several supports while it set, but one on each side held it firmly. I used scrap resting on the black tray as a base for the support. It is as solid as if it were part of the vehicle.



I put tapered shims on the fan surround.



The rear was the hardest. Same curve cut out of 2x4, bottom edge 1.5" below ceiling weld (like the front), but with all the bumps back there it was difficult to hold it in position for screwing.



After agonizing over insulation, I settled on EZ-Cool with Thinsulate.



The ceiling panels are 1/4" (actually 3/16") Luan ply. I got the best I could find, but the quality was so poor that there was no hope for a really smooth surface. Accepting that reality, I applied primer, two coats of paint matched to the white of the van, and three coats of Minwax Polycrylic all with random strokes--no feathering. I like the effect. We will also be carrying momentos of our cats (hair) on our travels.

I actually cut the panels too precisely. Installation above the head is not so precise a maneuver. Fortunately, I was smart enough to install front and rear first, then make adjustments on the middle two that were just rectangles. It was critical, though, that the front edge butt the lip in the headliner, that the screw line be exactly 2 7/8" back from the front edge to center on the edge of that 1x4, and the hole for the fan start 7" back from that edge. That fit perfectly.



The result passes my ultimate test--reflections are true with no dips or waves. Thin battens and moldings will cover the seams, but these will come with the upper walls.





Next up were the upper wall panels. I just thought the ceiling was weird. What finally worked was a "crown mold" made from 2x4. One edge 45°, another 36° and the third I'm not sure--whatever worked.



This was attached to the wall panels before installation.



Turns out the 2x4 wasn't quite wide enough and my two hands weren't sufficient to hold things in place for measuring, so I filled the resulting gap with a thin strip (5/16").



That boo-boo resulted in a nice shadow effect. The wall panel actually has a bit of bow as it crosses an intermediate cross piece, but it is not noticeable.



Windows go below this panel--as large as will fit the spaces. They are ordered and will arrive early April. I'm thinking they will have to be framed with fabric because I have not the talent to fabricate something out of wood.

Cup holder:

The Promaster's cup holders should violate some federal safety law. The seats sit high as in a bus and the cup holders are practically on the floor. This is my remedy:



The front is held up by dowels that anchor between the original cup holders. A strap attaches to some rods behind the dash.

Next is the floor--Marmoleum, then on to the cabinetry.

Curry maple is very interesting wood

Great start. Keep us posted.