That's a nice saw.
He has a lot just in the Carter wheels and guides.
Don't know how much the wheels cost but I put Guidall 400's on my old Crescent and they were $500.
That was years ago,probably more now.

Just to confirm for you, by design it will eject the center when the quill is retracted fully. Mine sometimes is a little reluctant to come out but if I turn the quill handwheel hard enough it has always ejected for me. I'm not sure what the answer is for one that might be corroded in place- perhaps a slide hammer grabbing onto the non-rotating part of the live center?

Harbor freight carries stuff like this:

Also could try Autozone or the like if you have one near you, they lend specialty tools for free. I'd probably put a hose clamp around the fingers to tighten it down on the livecenter.

Cool stuff!

Approximately 500 pieces antique woodworking tools, mostly Stanley and a few Keen Kutter and Union. 90% dated before 1900, some to 1870's.

You can get pex that is rated for gas.

You can also use the yellow plastic pipe underground and metal fittings above.

You could G.C. the job to save some $. I think a poured concrete wall may be the least expensive. You are going to need some plans and they may need to be stamped by a licensed Architect or Structural Engineer, so your first step would be to draw some simple plans. A plan view showing location on your lot, and distance to abutters and other structures. A section view depicting a footing (10" x 20" should be fine on most virgin soil with two, #5 rebar lengthwise),. the wall (A 10" wall should have two or three and horizontals and verticals every 2' or so.), existing and proposed grades, and the railing. Show 3/4 gravel and landscape fabric behind the wall and location of drain holes. Take these to the Building Inspector and ask for advice. You can use the plans to request bids for the work. You can also use them to get a good idea of how much fill you'll need. There are many small contractors that will use their small (not mini) excavator at an hourly rate; and he may haul in stone. ( I've got a good guy that charges me $80/hr. from the time he leaves his shop with a dump truck, trailer, and machine, 'till he leaves my job site.) The smaller Contractors and Sub-Contractors work together all the time. They can refer you to Sub's they like and may tell you who to stay away from. (Some of them won't work with certain others.) They can usually get better pricing from each other as well as from the suppliers.

If you decide to G.C. this project, send me a PM and I'll answer any questions and provide a few tips..

After about a week of discovery. I have FINALLY managed to successfully install a Byrd Shelix spiral cutterhead with carbide inserts on my Delta 22-580 2-speed lunchbox planer. Many of the Delta lunchbox planers are similarly designed, so these instructions might work on other models. No guarantees!

And, a shout out to all the members here that post pictorial tutorials. It is a time consuming process.

I purchased my Shelix head from Holbren. Great service! The head is packed in very heavy cardboard, and wood blocks protect each end of the cutterhead. The left side bearing is installed. The right side bearing is loose in a box. You'll see why later. Included in the box is a screwdriver handle and a torx hex head insert to remove and/or rotate the carbide inserts. Also included are several spare carbide inserts. Nice touch!

So, first, some suggestions, warnings, and disclaimers:

-Download or copy a parts list from ereplacementparts.com or a similar website. Not entirely necessary, but it does help if you damage a part in the process. Just note that there are many parts for the 22-580 that are obsolete. If you damage one, you're on your own.

-Take pictures as you go. Take pics before and after removal of parts. Take closeups of fasteners or details.

-Have an organized space to keep removed parts. Place fasteners with parts that are removed. Try to keep similar parts in the same location.

-Clean as you go. It’s amazing how much debris collects in nooks and crannies. Before vacuuming, MAKE SURE loose parts are secured. I accidentally sucked a spring into my shop vac and ended up removing the bag and fishing it out with a magnet. Messy.

-Resist the urge to remove parts that don’t need to be removed.

-The entire process should be performed while the machine is UNPLUGGED.












































I recommend a slight change sequence of the assembly process.

1. Install the guide rails.
2. Install the raise/lower chain guard.
3. Install the guide bar tube and guide bar.
4. Install the cutterhead lock and spring.
5. Install the cutterhead pulley.
6. Install the poly-v belt and re-tension by rotating the motor and tightening the motor bolts.
7. Install the drive pulley cover.
8. Re-attach the height tape to the frame.
9. Install the cutterhead lock bar tube.
10. Install and tighten the cutterhead lock bar.
11. Install the side covers.
12. Install the right and left top covers with the top roller.
13. Install the depth stop knob.
14. Install the height adjustment knob.
15. Install the cutterhead lock knob.
16. Install the chip deflector and dust collection plenum.
17. Install the top cover plates.
18. Recalibrate the depth/height indicator.
19. Test by standing to the side of the planer without running a piece of lumber before feeding lumber.

I hope this all helps. I tested mine with some rough cut curly maple. Probably 90% of the tearout is eliminated, and the surface is silky smooth. The other big benefit is the noise is GREATLY reduced.

One other warning. I cannot emphasize that you DO NOT have to remove the gearbox housing to accomplish this installation. I did, and it added at least 3 days to my process. The gearbox has bushings that act as spacers between the inside and outside plates, and if you remove the entire assembly, you will more than likely liberate a ball bearing that serves as a detent for the speed adjustment. In order to reinstall the ball bearing, I had to remove the motor (more fun!).

What about concrete jacking

That looks like it would be really nice to do dovetails and carvings on.

Since I know now make threads in wood in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", 1 1/4", and 1 1/2" I am wondering how easy it is to make this vise.

I would really love to have any vise but this one really appeals to me.

Arlin

They are ok, but if you snag one at the store make sure you put it through it's paces first. Open, close, raise and lock, make sure lock works, lower, and will it do it twice.

Sounds picky, but at the store level it took me checking 3 to find one that passed all of the checks. In use all other brands of roller stands have been better, maybe it's just the ones local, but I would call it passable, not a Gem.

I tighten any blade to about 20 - 25 ft/lbs. Maybe over kill? I also wipe the arbor flange and both sides of the blade before tightening. It is interesting that finger tight has been tight enough. I am not sure what the manual says about tightening, don't thing I ever opened it.