Smarter folks will chime in here, but I think that's the reaction of cherry to lye. You may be stuck removing wood down to where the color is gone....but wait for the smart guys to assess. If you want to do a test, put some water in a small spot and see if it gets lighter....best done somewhere inconspicuous, so you might want to skip that for now.

hmm? I always considered the adjuster on my 60 1/2 very smooth.

Thanks for that mini-review, Derek. I wonder why Lie-Nielsen didn't opt for a wider wheel for better stability? One thing I like about the Veritas guide compared to an Eclipse is that the wider wheel allows for better stability when sharpening.

I'm really on the fence about whether to purchase a LN guide. For most of what I do, my Veritas Mk II and my moderately capable skills at freehand honing suffice.

Very cool

what method do you use for tapering the pizza peel?

Nice work btw

I did the same thing and used the exact same method to get rid of an impact depression in a table top. Worked great for me.

Nice job on your repair...Tom

shorter motor belt?

that would be the simple fix or maybe a link belt just to see if it made a difference. then back to a shorter belt if it worked

Joe

Sure could mess up a project.
I had some red oak like yours but it wasn't as bad I just cut the bad stuff out and burned it. I would sprinkle some Borax on the wood its suppose to kill the bugs.

Unfortunately the only finish hat you can definitively identify is shellac. Put a few drops of alcohol¹ some where inconspicuous, if after 15 minutes the finish softens then it is shellac. The other tests for lacquer and waterborne finishes are o longer valid. Today lacquer thinner is mostly acetone and that will damage many finishes including varnish (but not conversion) and some waterborne finishes. There are several waterborne which are not affected by acetone (see the Thread in this form for John's recent tests). Waterborne used to be polyurethane or acrylic but now can be pretty much anything including: polyester, epoxy, conversion varnish etc.

¹ No need to go buy DNA to test for shellac, any alcohol will work—vodka, rum, tequila… just so long as it's at least 100 proof.

Thanks again John,

For kitchen table tops, this is the one that I think about the most. Abrasion is important, but I'm not sure anything is going to resist scratches if someone drags a cast iron pot across the table or pokes a fudge into it. But hot cups happen daily.

Thanks also for turning me on to Arm-R-Seal. My go to finish for virtually every indoor horizontal surface. And some vertical ones as well.

Steve

Another informative and useful test, John. I don't remember seeing anyone attempt an abrasion test. Thanks!