Have you tried eReplacementparts.com? Don't know if they'll have those parts, but you can try.

Walnut has a lot of tannic acid in it. It is likely interacting with one or more components—unfortunately the new "improved" SDS is useless here.

This is why it's important to test the finish schedule before aplying to the project. Shellac would be a much more friendly and easy to use finish while looking better. Particularly Garnet.

Just turn the heater control to vacation. No real advantage to shutting off the water to just the heater.

Shellac.

a 1/32" roundover at the top with a straight rabbet profile?

get your sanding block out, you have the rabbet bit already

There are two issues that you would have to overcome: first is the small radius you propose, the second is how long is the straight portion of the rabbet gong to be. It would not work real well to have a radius say 1/2" above the straight portion of the bit and only need a 3/8" deep rabbet.

Additionally, even if it was made it would have a larger profile radius than 1/32" more like 1/16" or more. Not many grind a cutter with less than that and those are hard to come by

This is what I did when I made cutting boards for presents a few years ago.

Howard Acheson said:

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Here is some info on cutting board surface treatment that may be helpful. A film finish is not a good solution as every time you cut or pound on the board you open a pathway to the wood underneath. Juices will get under the finish and lift the finish.

An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.

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Can't speak for router bits, but I had good experience with Dynamic in NY for HSS planer and 10" carbide blades. http://www.dynamicsaw.com/pricelist.html
Others to consider might be Ridge: http://ridgecarbidetool.com/sharpening/
and Forrest: http://www.forrestblades.com/forrest-fac...ening.html

nice
know one would likely notice except you
either way nicely done

If you're willing to come north to Sonoma county we've got two great teachers here

http://www.djmarks.com/

http://www.jerrykermode.com/ (I'm going to try taking the intermediate class with Jerry next year)

The 4 amp batteries don't fit all the Makita tools-I found out AFTER I bought 2 of them off the clearance table. They only fit about a third of the LXT tools I have. I think there is a small yellow star on the label, on the tools they do fit.
There is some plastic I COULD cut away, to make them fit, but I figure there must be a reason.