That was going to be exactly my suggestion. You need to heat the object directly, not indirectly via heating the air that surrounds them, unless you partially enclose them so the warmed air stays local.

My FIL uses the relatively cheap HF parabolic infrared heater with great success in his RV when he has shore power and doesn't want to burn propane. He also doesn't trust the furnace as far as leaking CO, but that's another story.

It has a low 400W setting, and oscillation mode can be turned off. Since what you heat will in turn heat the air, you may be able to raise the temperature of the bowl and hose even more (on a low setting) by building a light 'box' around the area, just to slow down air movement, with the IR heater aimed into the 'box'. It may not be necessary, especially with the high setting, but it's something to think about at least.

http://www.harborfreight.com/400900-watt...62313.html

Yes get an inline air filter. HF has a small one that can connect to the inlet of the regulator.

You know you will make a mess of the surrounding area if you spray arm r seal and seal a cell. Be sure to do this outside so you don't breath too much of this and possibly burn your house down.

Yes you can spray waterbourne products. With the 1.4mm N/N you will need to dilute some of them to bring the viscosity down. Check with customer service to see if it is possible to get a 1.8mm or larger N/N preferably a 2.0mm. Get a #4 ford cup to measure the viscosity will help you be more consistent. Jeff has a nice table or viscosity and N/N combinations on homestead finishing products.

With your pancake compressor you probably wont be able to spray things larger than your small boxes. It comes down to how often you will have to wait for the compressor to catch back up.

Here's an inexpensive switch:

Ebay

The exhaust pipe should be insulated the full length until it exits the roof. The vent should also run for 10 to 15 minutes after showering as well to get the rest of the moisture out.

Cold pipe = condensation inside the pipe.

I swapped one out Saturday for that type thing. They go bad so if I were you I would start there and see what you get

Alder is the poor man's cherry. However for me I can get cherry cheaper than alder cause the alder available is ugly stuff with lots of knots.

I'd like to know how you plan to stain the cherry. It's almost unstainable.

You have Mike Dunbar in Hampton, NH not far from the coast.
http://www.thewindsorinstitute.com/

There is also You Tube

I would start here

Joe

It seems that when you are grinding and "roll" across the edge, doing the right edge, the center, the left edge, then go back to center and then back to right edge,(going back and forth) you actually do the center twice for each time you do each edge.

Since my Momma never called me sonny because I was so bright, I always go just one way when "rolling" across the edge of a tool. If I start on the right, I will only sharpen right to left, then pick the edge up and go back to the right and repeat the process, avoiding the double hit on the center.

I would use my corded jointer and planer.