I’ve built a few things lately but haven’t posted pictures, just been looking at others projects/builds. I got started on Christmas projects early this year and completed this moxon vise for a friend for Christmas. His work holding/clamping is severely lacking. I watched several moxon builds and I combined the best features of each with my own design/features that makes it more than a moxon vise.

I Bought the crank handles and 2” delrin on Amazon. I made 3/8” spacers from the delrin. I bought 1/2” washers and bored them out to 17mm, the size of the acme shaft. I bought the springs from ACE hardware. I added cubber to the faces with double stick tape. Both vise faces have clamping/hold down capabilities to provide added flexibility. Finally it’s finished with WATCO.
   
                       

I have a friend who wants a bird feeder to be built of cedar. Easy enough, but he is also looking to have a mural painted on it using artist's water based paints. I'm looking for recommendations for the best clear coat to offer some weather protection, but that will affect the artwork as little as possible. I appreciate all advice!

Christian Becksvoort wrote an article in the July/August 2018 edition of Fine Woodworking entitled “Build a Classic Shaker Bench”. This is a 6 foot long bench featuring lots of turned components (31 to be exact) and although I had very limited turning experience I thought this might be just the ticket to earn my turning merit badge: challenge accepted.

The starting point was with the back spindles: this was a strategic decision: I figured if I could not figure out how to make 22 identical spindles that fit perfectly at both ends into their respective mortises, the project was doomed from the start. I had previous, albeit limited experience using my son's pen-turning lathe to make chisel handles and I was fairly comfortable using the roughing and spindle gouges for these projects. I employed a full length tool rest on the lathe and angled it to reflect the straight taper of the spindles. This approach worked well, and using a full length sanding block to dial in the final shape, I was able to produce the required lot of spindles.



Once I had convinced myself that the turning aspect of this build was not going to be an impediment to success, I turned my attention to the bench seat. Although I could have done a glue-up to create the slab for the 6 foot x 14 inch x 1’5/8” seat, I decided to go with a single piece of cherry so I’d end up with an uninterrupted grain pattern on this critical and very visible part of the piece. I ended up contacting Groff & Groff Lumber in Pennsylvania who were exceptionally accommodating: they sent me photos of multiple slabs that met my size requirements and helped me choose the best one of the bunch. Here is what I ended up with:



I face jointed and planed this as a single piece and ripped it to width and cut it to length using a track saw. Once I had it trimmed to its rough final dimensions, I began planning for drilling 28 required spindle mortises.


The first required jig: the back spindle mortises were drilled at 15° and were accomplished on the drill press with this jig:



To ensure that these mortises were drilled square to the seat blank, I used a gauge block to check each setup prior to drilling.



Once the back spindle mortises were completed, it was on to the leg mortises.


These were compound mortises, with a 1” ID mortise drilled for the leg tenon and a 1-1/2” ID mortise for the OD of the leg.



Once the all the mortises were drilled, it was time for shaping the seat. The first step was to create a cove toward the back of the seat on the table saw.





This was followed by forming the seat ramp with another jig: a router sled.



This worked well to define the rough shape of the seat. I made the round over profile on the front of the bench (with a humungous 1-1/2" radius round over bit) and chamfered the lower front and side edges. After a considerable effort sanding through the grits, the slab was ready for assembly.





The final piece of the puzzle was the back rail. This also required 22 mortises to accept the back spindles and this was accomplished on the drill press with the aid of, you guessed it, another jig.



The back rail is also tapered from bottom to top on both the face and back and this was accomplished with the planer, and yet another jig.



Once the the various pieces and parts were final sanded, assembly began. At the suggestion of a chair-maker friend, I used West System Gflex epoxy. It has a very long open time and provides enough flexibility in the joint to withstand the flexing that might be experiences these types of joints.


I started with the undercarriage, and finished with the back rail and spindles.




Although Mr. Becksvoort chose an ebony finish for his bench I decided to go with a more traditional clear finish (oil/wax) on cherry.
The finish ( which I use almost exclusively ) was OSMO Polyx Hard Wax Oil. Provides a very nice low luster finish and really accentuates the cherry grain.




And here is the finished product in its assigned spot in the house: just waiting to be sat on.

Never thought I would be making this post but I am getting divorced and have a decent amount of hardwood and it would kill me to leave it behind.
All is kiln dried mostly 8/4
African mahogany
Sapeale
Walnut

It’s in 2 locations in my garage and shed out back
Both are accessible to a pick up
You must be able to load and transport
This isn’t going into a car or mini van
Zip code is 19114
Please PM with a phone number
Replies will be answered in the order that they are received

There may be power tools for sale coming as well

Thanks

What's the consensus. Chain drive or belt drive?

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/a...05047.html

I've always used Weldwood urea formaldehyde (powdered) glue on my table tops to avoid issues with glue creep. It's not made anymore and the only other glue I have on hand is Titebond 2. Is there another choice. I know Unibond doesn't creep but don't want to buy a gallon. I'm considering Ultra Cat from Veneer supplies, which is pretty much the same as the Weldwood product. But are there any other choices of which I'm not aware?

i have not posted anything in quite a while - although i'm always reading threads. hoping this inspires others to share their photos and get some energy going.
an entryway cabinet - 43" tall - and i think about 15" x 13"

primary cabinet wood is vertical grain doug fir. branches and handles are steamed madrone burl. petals are holly, flower centers afzelia burl. and secondary drawer wood is mahogany.
the drawer front and door were vacuum pressed - the front cross pieces were laminated

veneers were cut using the double bevel method. however the door was too long for me to swing it around on my scroll saw to do the flowers at the far end - notice the branch that goes all the way across - i split the piece there - worked each half - and then taped the 2 pieces together and cut in the branch - which is about 1/2 way and gave me enough room.

appreciate any comments
jc

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The blade on my shoulder plane broke and there are no replacement blades available since Stanley has discontinued this plane. I thought I'd check to see if anyone here has one they would sell or knows where I can buy a used one before going the Ebay route.

Thanks!

   

   

Does anybody know anything about using melamine sponges to dry sand or wet sand brushing lacquer?