Marples Bevel Edge Chisel set Made in Sheffield England  NEW

6 Chisels in wooden box, with original description.

Rear find  , these are NEW  

Here is link for Marples   https://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/20...rples.html

Here is link for Record Tools Inc  who acquire Marples   https://progress-is-fine.blogspot.com/20...rples.html


$ 145.00

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I talked to a Baldor Electric Motor Service shop, and they told me my motor isn't starting because I ran 10 gauge wire, instead of 8 gauge to the
220V Single Phase 5 HP Baldor Motor.  It's on a 30amp breaker.

Just curious what experience you guys have had and what your wiring setup is before I go out and spend $100 on 8 gauge wire, also what amp breaker are you using?

From most of the posts I read, I had thought most guys were using 10 gauge.

My motor is rated at 21.8 amps.

Ok! So I realize that this is not for woodworking, but I though some may be interested in this old vice. 

My nephew works at a foundry and loves to tinker with knives, axes, spoon carving and other such stuff. He has a few Emmert pattern maker's vices, and picked this one up last year. I was visiting family back in Waynesboro PA, which is where Emmerts were made, and took some pics. I believe there is still an old sign on the old factory in town. 

This is sort of the pattern makers vice for metal work. Of course, not for making patterns, but it provides great versitility that other vices don't 

   

   

Just thought some may get a kick out of this.  Those red bars are not part of the vice. I did not want to mess with his stuff, and only snapped a few pics.

I hear this all the time from experts and non-experts all the time when referring to stropping.  You press too hard, and you risk rounding over your edge and losing sharpness in the process.  Then I see Paul Sellers' hard pressure stropping technique on his chisels (at least 25 strops pressing really hard) and wonder if there's really an issue.  At the other extreme, I've seen knife sharpening videos where there's so little pressure, it's hard to believe the strop is providing any benefit whatsoever.  Has anyone actually experienced a rounded over edge?  How could you tell it was rounded over? 

Truth in lending - I've used Sellers' method and found my chisels get VERY sharp when stropped this way straight off a 4000 grit stone.

If anyone wants to make their own carbide burnisher (for burnishing card scrapers) just drop me a PM.  I have 3 lots of various carbide round pieces in different sizes which I'll send to you for either free or shipping costs (I would think shipping would be under $2).  These are from carbide end mills or carbide drill rod that I have been keeping for burnishers....but no longer have a lathe.

Thanks

I will split these up into 3 lots.  

I am cleaning out some of my tools.  These are all items usable in woodworking, so I thought I would post here before going to FB or elsewhere.  I will charge actual shipping, and it will be low cost (I will choose cheapest rate unless you want a specific method).  I can do Paypal or Venmo.  Thank you


1.  Brown and Sharpe guage block set.  Nice set in a nice box.  0.03125 to 1" -   SOLD




2.  Brown and Sharpe ball micrometer 0-1"   - Comes with adjustment tool and nice box. In very good condition...can't really tell it has been used.  $40






3. Starrett depth guage with box -  SOLD


4.  Starrett Pin micrometer - 0-1". Includes a Fowler box.  SOLD



5.  Walton Type A tap extensions (to extend the reach when tapping a hole) - 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8"....+ one extra   SOLD 

liquidating shop.
offering 3 wide chisels (two are 2", other is 1 3/4") backs flattened, edge shaped and sharpened, edge guards included (two wood, one leather) can't read mfg, I really like the short one. 
two floats (file) for wood plane fettering.
Reduced to $40 shipping included (conus)

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Hi,

I keep mine in a small metal can...every time I need a bit I pour them out, find the bit I need and scoop the rest back into the can....not too efficient.  I'm at a bit of a lull, woodworking-wise, so I thought I'd try to come up with a piece out of wood that'll hold them.  Have you built something you could share?  Since the bits themselves are 6-sided I can't simply drill holes in a block of wood........ unless there's been a 6-sided drill bit invention I don't know about. 
   Here are my parameters:

1) Cheap.  I would like to use scrap wood

2) I'd rather not invest in magnets to hold them in the holder, but I need a way for them to not fall out of the holder is flipped/knocked over.

3) I realize that I could probably buy something, but I'm a cheap SOB so I'd like to make something.


I figure I've got 20-30 bits, but I'd like room for expansion.


Got any ideas?   (I have perused YT, but nothing really struck my fancy so far).

Thanks!

[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]for sale are two lie nielsen planes and various bridge city tools. [/font]
[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]1. lie Nielsen low angle jack plane #62.... $240 [/font]
[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]2. lie nielsen low angle block plane #102....... $120.[/font]
[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]3. bridge city tools dovetail marking squares (model #hds1, hds2) sold as a pair only...... $150[/font]
[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]4. bridge city squares ( master square t2, double square ts3 ) sold as a pair only............... $120[/font]
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[font="Bitstream Vera Serif", "Times New Roman", serif]https://postimg.cc/w7zp2C8d]
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I build Adirondack chairs using vintage wooden water skis. The last one I did had a severe finish failure often being in the sun for a year or two.

I want to give them a couple coats of a good exterior “varnish”. Generally I like water passed poly but am considering oil based. The skis typically have a varnish like finish, some are painted.

I think I need to do a coat of clear shellac, then water based poly for the ease of clean up and quick dry time.

What say you?