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+-- Thread: Restoring an Old Drill Press (/showthread.php?tid=4978276)
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - THE CHUCK - mgfranz - 08-14-2010
Bill,
I know it's been a few years, but I need to take a road trip up to SJ... if anything to bring you my box of Jacobs chucks for rebuilds...
This is probably one of the best rebuilds I have ever witnessed! Bill you make me want to go shopping...
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - THE CHUCK - Anak - 08-14-2010
Very cool.
Kudos for this thread.
Has anyone pointed this thread and its counterpart out to Cian? These belong on the Power Tool Registry.
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - WIRE WHEELING PARTS - Rickbaro - 08-15-2010
skizzo said:
...The second photo shows a good example of the original WT grey/green color from the area that was behind the original switch......
How does this color compare to the Sage Green?
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - WIRE WHEELING PARTS - skizzo - 08-15-2010
Rickbaro said:
How does this color compare to the Sage Green?
You know, I was kicking myself when I wrote that in the post. I specifically had taken the photo to show the original paint, but it never occurred to me to grab the paint can cap to put beside it for comparison.
I had looked at it earlier to get an idea, though, and the Sage Green seems to be just a slight shade lighter, and a tad greener compared to the more greyish tone WT. The Spruce Green that I used on the PM90 in the background is definitely darker than than the WT color. The Sage Green might also make a nice substitute for the old PM pea green, but it is a fair bit lighter than the original for sure.
BTW, the Sage Green is in the "Painter's Touch" line of Rustoleum, not the usual white or gray cans. It is labeled as 2X coating (twice the coverage) and definitely went on heavier and didn't use as much paint. It also had a different nozzle design that seemed to work better than the usual little bitty plastic jobs on a small spindle. It cost about $4.50 per can and I used a can and a half yesterday for three coats on everything.
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - READY FOR ASSEMBLY - skizzo - 08-17-2010
Quick update, as everything... at least as far as I can tell... is now cleaned, prepped, painted, and ready for reassembly. The painted parts have been hanging untouched for three days, and while waiting for the paint to dry I finished wire wheeling the rusty nuts, bolts and whatnot. I also used taps and dies to run the threads on every threaded item, inside and out. The extra few minutes that it takes to do that makes it so much easier to put everything together by hand later when it matters.
Every nut, bolt, washer, rod, set screw, or whatever was a hunk of rust. They do clean up pretty quickly and nicely, though. Here are the motor mounting parts, some done, some not.
I also ran all the unpainted shiny parts through the buffing cycle. Here's one handle buffed, one not. I didn't worry about the internal cylinders. I don't have a photo yet, but wait'll we see the spindle cap up close eventually. Sweet.
After finishing up those miscellaneous items, it was a matter of untaping all the painted parts and laying them out to get ready for assembling. The color is a little washed out in these photos compared to the actual color.
The motor and quill/spindle assemblies.
The table and table raising assembly.
The head and handle. Regarding the cracks in the knobs, I ended up doing what I considered earlier... mixed up a batch of epoxy and slathered it on, using a couple small instruments to work it down into the cracks, and leaving it sloppy and heavy on top. After it dried, I buffed the knobs to get rid of the excess and clean them up. They came out pretty well and seem solid. I decided to leave the cracks showing rather than paint over and hide them. Full disclosure and all that... it is over sixty years old, after all.
And the money shot, with everything ready for step-by-step assembly.
And that ^^^points up^^^ fellow woodworkers, is a drill press, down to every last nut, bolt, washer and taper pin... except for that base and column still sitting way over in the far corner of the shop. Now comes the really satisfying part the next couple nights.
Thanks for following along.
Bill.
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - READY FOR ASSEMBLY - Phil Thien - 08-18-2010
Do you apply anything (wax, anything?) to nuts/bolts/handles, etc., to prevent them from rusting up again?
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - ASSEMBLING THE QUILL AND SPINDLE - skizzo - 08-19-2010
Phil Thien said:
Do you apply anything (wax, anything?) to nuts/bolts/handles, etc., to prevent them from rusting up again?
I wax intersecting surfaces, but other than that, no. I live in sunny, no humidity northern California. Unless things sit outside in open exposure, pretty much nothing rusts where my shop is located. That's not the case half an hour north or half an hour south, where they get coastal fog.
Two subassemblies went together tonight, which needed to be done before I put the whole thing together. This post shows the quill and spindle reassembly.
These are the basic parts as you'll recall... the spindle with the lower bearing and threaded retaining collar, the quill, the upper bearing, and the upper retaining collar.
Since I am reusing the original open bearings, it's finally time to repack the grease. I picked up a can of heavy multi-purpose grease at an auto parts store a few years ago and have gradually used it bit by bit.
Slide the quill onto the spindle and snugly over the bearing so that the bearing is fully seated into the well.
Now the upper bearing gets repacked, then installed onto the spindle grease side down. There is bound to be a better way to do this that what I did, but it worked. I didn't want to spend time trying to figure out something else. The problem is that by tapping the tubing down, I dinged up the spindle splines a little bit, so had to spend some time filing them back to normal. Oh well. And no, I am not using the same retaining collar to tap on that goes on the spindle... this one came out of a spare parts drawer and was used so that I was only putting tapping pressure on the inner race.
And voila, we have a reassembled quill with cleaned, repacked, and reused original bearings. Again, not necessarily the best idea compared to replacing them with new sealed bearings, but these are in good shape and the quill spins well. If they turn out to be a problem at some point, they will be easy to replace later. That's not the case with the proprietary pulley bearings.
On to the next sub-assembly.
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - ASSEMBLING THE TABLE RAISER - skizzo - 08-19-2010
I'm a little bummed at the pictures in this particular post. Something happened with the lighting and the resolution that I didn't realize until I came in here to do these posts. I had to spend some time fiddling with the images, which is why they don't look the same as others so far, but I'm also not going to take the table raiser assembly back apart just to get some replacement photos.
This thing was tricky and I had to study my "before" photos to figure out how everything went together. I did not do a good job of taking photos while pulling it apart, so it needed to be studied and tested a few times before actually putting it together. From what I can tell given my friend's experience a couple months ago and mine this time, the sequencing of the parts on this is pretty much a "one way only" assembly, which doesn't occur very often. Because the two gears are each pinned in place, they cannot be pinned first and then installed. Rather, they have to be installed in place, in the order shown. I may be wrong, but I can't see any other way.
This is the handle/crank assembly and one gear.
This is the drive screw and the other gear.
The crank shaft is installed through the casting and the small gear is pinned in place.
The large gear is slid into place sideways and aligned with the lower hole.
The screw is dropped through the large gear and pinned in place.
Those PITA tabbed washer and locking double nuts are installed to keep the screw in place. If the closest nut to the casting is tightened too much, the screw won't turn, so it has to be left just slightly loose and locked in place with the second nut.
Now the handle gets pinned in place. It was interesting to discover that the bore for this pin is WAY off-center, not even close to the middle of the shaft that it goes through. I have no idea if that was intentional design or just a manufacturing goof. It's not close.
The cap slips on and bolts into place.
And again, voila, we have an assembled table raiser assembly.
Too bad those photos came out so poorly. These were planned for use in some other purposes that I may not be able to do now. We'll see. Thanks for watching.
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - ASSEMBLING THE TABLE RAISER - Phil Thien - 08-19-2010
The photos are not bad at all. Perhaps it is your monitor or video card. The pics come through beautifully on this end.
Re: Restoring an Old Drill Press - ASSEMBLING THE TABLE RAISER - stav - 08-19-2010
It's looking really good. I can't wait for the final shots.